|
Tue 30/07 3:00 |
Mon 29/07 18:00 |
Doolin 3nts: Mrs Maeve Fitzgerald, Churchfield t065 707 4209 f065 707 4622 Co Clare p332 |
Checked into Doolin for 3 nights. Very friendly lady at the B and B. We might finally have another chance to connect to the Internet. Maeve not only will let us use her phone, but also actually did our last week's washing for us. Gratis! Don't expect treatment like this elsewhere. |
|
|
Tue 30/07 |
|
Cliffs of Moher . After a week of clouds and rain, we had a beautiful fine day (Max 17C), to see the spectacular Cliffs of Moher, very close to Doolin. It was also teaming with tourists, including some (below right) who defied huge signs to scale the fence and walk along the (somewhat crumbling) ledges in a fierce wind.
  
Doolin is a pretty little village, famed for its music. The food is great too. We told Maeve we cannot face any more bacon and eggs for breakfast, and she has given us fruit and cereal instead, which is enough until we sample the local fare at dinnertime. Below is a thatched cottage at Doolin, which has had additions to it without thatching.
The Burren. Walked over and drove through much of the "Burren". These are limestone areas, once part of a shallow sea, and originally covered with sandstone and shale. A big shake up in the earth's crust 270 million years ago created lots of cracks, where wildflowers in great variety grow, and many little animals live.
 
O'Dea Castle. We took Darryl and Carole Hood's advice and went to O'Dea castle. Mike's great-grandmother was an O'Dea. Lots of O'Malleys around this area too; most seem to be scallywags.
Milltown Malbay The afternoon was cool but very clear. Went to Milltown Malbay, where Jim and Sheena Ryan lived before coming to Aussieland. Below are the two main streets. Note the tractor parked. The Irish roads are mad. They are very narrow, and people make little effort to move over as you pass. Parking is here, there and everywhere.
 
Spanish Point. Two kilometres from Milltown, is Spanish Point, and we had a lovely afternoon with Bill Ryan, Jim's father. He is really great fun. We went down to the Armada Hotel, and met Johnny Bourke, the publican, who is also a real character. He says hello to Jim and Sheena. Below I am outside Jim's family home with Bill. On the left is the view (from the other side) that one has from Johnny's pub. There were people swimming in the fresh 17 degree breezy afternoon weather.
  
Ennis. That evening, went to Ennis (below), and spent some time with Carol, Jim's sister, who is an opthalmologist there. It was great to see her again.
  |
|
Wed 31/07 7:30 |
Tue 30/07 22:30 |
AIMIA, Andrew |
|
|
Wed 31/07 Evening |
Wed 31/07 Day |
|
After staying out late the previous night, had a slightly slower day. Updated the website (Thanks, Maeve) then headed off to redo some of the area around Doolin that we missed yesterday. As you can see from the picture below, it is a rather pretty little town.
The Irish have some interesting street signs, don't they? The sheep and goats are all over the roads, but we haven't once seen a warning about them, like we do with the kangas and koalas. Some people in Ireland have really cushy jobs. As it is "summer", these temporary life-saving shelters are all over the place. Even the Irish were not in the water on this day - max 15 C and blowing a gale!
 
The wildflowers are spectacular. We are obviously here at the right time of the year for them. I am on the coast of Doolin in these photos below, with the Cliffs of Moher in the background.
 
Burren, Poulnabrone Dolmen 3800BC. The area to the north and east of Doolin is full of ancient burial sites, monuments etc., It was distressing to see the tourists picking up the rocks, picking the flowers etc., There was a sign saying that the area was to be given further attention by the government. Hope they hurry up! That night, we wandered around the 3 pubs in town to listen to the Irish music, for which Doolin is famous. Have discovered that I have a new talent. I find a nice little smoke free pocket everywhere we go. This causes the person/s next to me to immediately light up and puff away like mad!
  |
|
Thu 1/08 19:22 |
Thu 1/08 10:22 |
Last Qtr, Galway, Connemara area, Clifden . |
Galway After three lovely days in Doolin, we set off to Galway, a lovely town. Left early ( the Irish call 8.30 early!), as the Galway races were on, and it was "Ladies Day". Huge traffic jams were expected and all the shops close at 1 pm. "Don't Ask" won, and is tipped to win the Melbourne Cup. You heard it here first. There was a bloke fishing at the weir in the freezing Corrib River in Galway for salmon. The Irish obviously do this for contraception. The river has a number of weirs where you sometimes see the salmon jumping. In the pubs, the salmon is relatively cheap and very good. Walked around Galway, and saw the oldest medieval church still in existence (St Nicholas, the Anglican Church of Ireland, in the picture.) There were 400-year-old graves of a past mayor and his son. The mayor put his son to death by hanging (personally, because no-one else volunteered), when his son murdered a Spanish visitor. And our kids think we are tough.
 
Took a diversion out to Carraroe, on the way to Clifton, on the west coast, and saw them thatching a house. Wandered around the coastline a bit. This was a beach made of coral shells. The water was clear, and the lifesaver was as busy as the chap above. This is a big Gaelic area, and here, most of the signs were only in Gaelic, which is sometimes a challenge when the road map is in English. We're getting the hang of it. Can't really get into Gaelic talk-back radio as we drive along, though.
 
Connemara 12 Bens Area. The Connemara area is east of Clifton. We agreed (yes, we do agree on some things), that is was our favourite area so far in Ireland, and wish we had more time here. The Twelve Bens (mountains) were stunning, and the "hazy sunshine" in snatches helped. We took an unmarked back road, and saw wonderful scenery. Mike forgot that he wasn' t driving the Prado, but the Camry-look-alike survived.
 
Peat drying On this trip, we find different things interesting. Mike got excited the first time he saw a pile of peat drying. Looked like clods of dirt to me. He also loves reading the petrol prices all over Ireland, and I couldn't care less. I tend to like the wildflowers and the coastal vistas. Mike loves the "N" roads in Ireland. (N probably stands for National, but means Nearly Navigable) There is not much to see but you can roar along at 40 miles per hour. I tend to like the "R" (Regional) roads and the little ones. Lots to see, and it makes driving in the back roads of Fraser Island look fast. Ireland has something for everyone! (Mike pronounces "R" as "Aaaarrrgh!", which is the noise one makes when meeting a vehicle coming the other way. Often it's a 12 ton tractor driven by a 12 year old. The width of the R roads, or the distance between the hedges, is exactly one car width less two thicknesses of paint.)
 
Clifden, Sky Road Drove around the coastline of Clifton in the late afternoon. Very, very nice.
  |
|
Fri 2/08 1:00 |
Thu 1/08 16:00 |
Clifden, Letternoosh 1nt: Margaret & Orla Pryce, Atlantic View Westport Rd t095 21 291 Co Galway p22 |
|
|
|
Fri 2/08 Day |
Clifden to Donegal |
Cleggan Left Clifton and wandered around the coastline. The sandy beaches were not too bad. Nice water, but no surf. Water temperature hit 14 C. At low tide, one can walk or even drive a conventional car out to Omey Island across the sand bridge at the top-left of the picture below.
Kylemore Abbey. Took Sheena's advice and dropped into Kylemore Abbey and Lake. Just beautiful. Nuns in habits everywhere. They run the best "souvenir" shop I have seen anywhere. About 1km from the abbey up a delightful track is a restored chapel, which is just like a mini-cathedral, with beautiful Irish marble. The EU funds helped restore it. In fact, all over Ireland, EU funds have provided for projects like these. Ireland seems to have really benefited from membership. No wonder Turkey wants "in".
  
Leenane. Today was summer. Yes folks, it was 26 C. The locals alternated between swooning with the heat, and gloating that the north-west was the only place in Ireland with good weather. (It was 15 C max in Dublin). The scenery was spectacular on the way to Clifton. We think it was the best yet, but the nice day helped.
 
Dropped in briefly to see Westport, County Mayo. Yet another neat, pretty, freshly painted town, but more modern than others. I would invest in house paint shares, if I were Irish. They paint their buildings frequently, and everything is so neat and bright. Limerick seeded to be the exception. ( For our feelings on Limerick, please refer to Frank McCourt's book!)
 
Croagh Patrick. This imposing 765m mountain south-west of Westport looked truly spectacular on a lovely day. Saint Patrick is said to have performed his snake-expulsion act from the top of Croagh Patrick. Climbing the mountain is an act of penance for the pilgrims. Some even trek 40km from Ballintubber Abbey. They climb it in bare feet. Last Sunday was Reek Sunday, when thousands climb the mountain up the track in the picture below. (Probably called "Reek" because they take off their shoes and socks.) So you can see, that not only is food, clothing etc., expensive in Ireland, sin is also very expensive. Can you imagine what sort of whopper you have to commit in Australia for your penance to be a 40 km trek, and then a climb up a mountain in bare feet? Three "Hail Mary's" seem like a good deal. Below is the statue of St Patrick at the foot of the mountain, and his magnificent view of the bay.
  
Continuing on to Knock, a tiny town of 440 people, we were stunned at the fervour of Irish religious enthusiasm. Knock is Ireland's answer to Lourdes and Fatima. A couple of women saw an apparition in 1879 and the pilgrims began to arrive after that. It even has an international airport! We parked in the "North" carpark, where there were separate entrances for Cars, Buses (as per usual) but also for "Ambulances" and "Invalids". We were amazed at the giant Rosary beads, two stories high. In Australia, we can cop the giant cow, banana, pineapple etc., ... but rosary beads? There is a newish basilica (below right) which seats 12,000, and people pack into it for masses all day long. There are directory signs all over the very large area, as you see below. Holy water this way, confessions that way, prayer centre over there etc., All the time the air is filled with a broadcast of the current Rosary or Mass etc. The site itself is totally non-commercial, with no charges at all. (However, in the adjacent town there are some very tacky religious souvenir shops.) In comparison, we think Australian Catholics are really Protestants who like to drink and gamble (or at least a lot of them!)
  
The area around Clifton and the north-west coast is full of O'Malleys. You can see a few below. Yes, John O'Malley is a real estate tycoon, Brendan O'Malley has a boat charter service, Claire is here, there and everywhere, Maureen runs a B and B. Sorry, Niecy, obviously the Denise O'Malleys are hiding their light under a bushel. We're sure the Niecys are here somewhere.
  
Yet another gorgeous town was found at Kilmagh, and then we went to Ceile Fields for a tour of the excavations revealing a large community (of 1000), which lived here 5700 years ago. They fenced in their sheep, cattle etc., with stone walls, and nothing seems to have changed in that regard. The bogs took over their lands, and they moved on.
  |
|
Sat 3/08 1:00 |
Fri 2/08 16:00 |
Donegal 2nts: Bay View, Golf Course Rd Donegal Town t073 23 018 Co Donegal p128 |
|
|
|
Sat 3/08 Day |
Co Donegal |
Glenveagh National Park . This was really very beautiful. Went on a walk high above the Lake and Castle. Wildflowers, wow!. Have learnt a lot about "bogs". They occur anywhere - up mountains, on the flat, high land, low land; anywhere there is high rainfall and sphagnum moss to keep the moisture.
 
Don't forget the Aeroguard in the bogs. Midges++. Glacial valleys are everywhere.
 
Bog Cotton. It looks like cotton, but has no real tensile strength until you mix it with wool. Below R. is more peat drying. Mike was very excited.
 
Horn Head, Dunfanaghy. This was a stunning area, with nice walks, interesting rapidly shifting fog, birds, wildflowers etc., We stopped for lunch in Dunfanagy, a quaint and pretty little seaside town.
 
Mamore Gap. Here we found Ireland's straightest road. We were following a "signposted" scenic route. One section of the road was so narrow that Mike had to back into a farmer's driveway, and I had to open his gate up, so that other cars could pass. Yep, worse than Fraser! Again, religion is all over Ireland, definitely not just in the churches. This grotto has a magnificent view of the Inishowen Peninsula, and has a statue of Padre Pio, and the BVM. (There are BVM's all over Ireland, an abbreviation for Blessed Virgin Mary)
 
Inishowen Peninsula. Here you can see bog in the high foreground and farmland in the lower areas. This area of County Donegal is actually further north than Northern Ireland.
 |
|
Mon 5/08 1:00 |
Sun 4/08 16:00 |
LondonDerry and Antrim Coast |
Left the lovely Band B in Donegal and went to Londonderry-Slash-Derry. (The Loyalists call it the one and the Republicans the other) Radio announcers sometimes abbreviated it to Slash city. The walls are the best preserved in Europe, and have never been breached. They are up to 9metres wide and 8 metres high and you can walk around the top of them, as seen below. Mike liked the canons in position for battle.
 
Below, someone has whited out the "London", expressing their Republican tendencies. In the Bogside (Catholic) area, there are many famous murals, including the child in the gas-mask below. When we were there, two murders due to bombs had happened (one for each side), and you wonder whether they will ever get over it and get on with life. However, it is a very small area of Northern Island that is "troubled", although Loyalist flags are everywhere.
  
Along the north-east coastline there are plenty of wide sandy beaches, like the one above. It was a sunny 22C Sunday, and all of the cars were parked along the beach. The sand is quite hard-packed, as there is no surf to tear it up, so normal cars park there. All over Ireland, we were driven crazy by the tractors on the roads. Many farmers use them instead of cars, and you even see them all over the roads on a Saturday night. Presumably, they chuck the girlfriend in the fertilizer spreader attachment, for a night on the town. Mike just loved following tractors at 15 km/hr all over Ireland. At the beach, we saw that the children are trained from an early age to be tractor-fiends.
 
Below is more of the lovely Antrim coastline, and Mike outside the Bushmill's whiskey distillery. We did a tour, which was OK, but the good stuff was too expensive to buy. Please note the blue skies in the pictures. We took enough photos on this great day for photography to wallpaper a house.
 
The Giant's Causeway area was magnificent. We did a 2 hour walk. Mike begged for mercy again, but I could have walked here all day. Again, saw plenty of heather-on-the-hill, as below.
 
Very light winds, thankfully, so Mike didn't blow off the cliff and end up 400 feet or more below.
 
We loved the columnar basalt. Yes, even I thought it was cool. The views just kept on coming.
  
 
Dragged ourselves away from all of this and went on to the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, which hangs 80 feet above the sea. Lovely walk to this as well.
  |
|
qu |
Sun 4/08 16:30 |
Ballycastle 1nt: Varerie Brown, Glenmore House, White Park Rd BT54 6LR t/f 028 2076 3584 Co Antrim p155 |
Stayed in Ballycastle that night, and drove to Tor Head at the north-west tip of Ireland. If there wasn't a fog, we could have seen Scotland 13 miles away. Luckily, it again cleared to a fine, mild day. Saw cute little villages like Cushendall, owned by the National Trust, below. |
|
|
Mon 5/08 |
County Down |
 
Went to Glenariff Forest. There are nine glens in this area. We did a walk and found a few waterfalls, and scenery like our rainforests in Lamington, but with different vegetation, including the shamrock.
 
Stopped in Belfast, and went on a 2 hour self-guided walk. Really original food found in this pub- crocodile and kangaroo from Kakadu!
 
St Patrick Centre, "Ego Patricus" display, Downpatrick, Northern Ireland. St Patrick is said to be buried at Downpatrick. They have built an information centre about his influence on Irish history and religion and it is truly magnificent. It is quite a beautiful building, a little in the style of the winery at Mt Cotton, with stainless steel, stone, glass, timber mixed in a stunning combination. The multimedia presentations were absolutely stunning. There were press button vignettes of St Patrick and his influence on Irish life in every imaginable form. When the rest of Europe was going through the dark ages, reading, writing etc., was preserved and advanced in Ireland. We could not believe how interesting it all was, and had to tear ourselves away at closing time.
|
|
Tue 6/08 1:00 |
Mon 5/08 16:00 |
Downpatrick 1nt: John&Liz McMorris, Swan Lodge t/f028 446 155 42, 30 St Patrick's Rd Saul BT30 7JQ Co Down p158 |
The B and B we stayed in was owned by Liz and John McMorris, and it was a little out of town, with a wonderful view overlooking the bay. On arrival, they gave us a cup of tea and homemade apricot frangipanni pie in their gorgeous garden. The room was 6 star - it even had dressing gowns in the wardrobe and beautifully embroidered towels. There was a top quality waterbed and the best shower in Ireland. But wait...there was more. The next morning we had freshly squeezed orange juice, and a gourmet choice of breakfasts, with hot home made scones, and home made jam. Fresh fruits, eggs any way etc. etc., They were the most friendly people you could imagine. This place is the hottest tip in Ireland - Swan Lodge, near Downpatrick!
Stop Press: January 2005. John and Liz's son-in law Stephen has just sent us these delightful photos of Swan Lodge in the snow on Christmas Day 2004. Compare the picture of the fountain with the one above.
 
|
|
|
Tue 6/08 |
|
On our way back to Dublin the next day we dropped in to Brugh na Boinne, another archaeological dig from Neolithic times. Ring forts, passage tombs, predating the pyramids of Egypt. The passages in the tombs were orientated so that the sun show directly down them at the equinox. The presentation is well done, and worth the visit.
  |
|
Wed 7/08 2:00 |
Tue 6/08 17:00 |
BA 5976 17:00 Tue Dub->LHR 18:15, Aer Lingus |
Back in Dublin, there was the usual massive queue at Aer Lingus check-in. Then a 4 1/2-hour wait in the Qantas/BA lounge at Heathrow Airport, before departing for Bangkok. |
