The Fitzies Europe Tour 2002

Ireland Week 1, Dublin to Kerry

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Brisbane
Date Time

Local
Date Time

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The Travellers' Diary

Mon 22/07 1:00

Sun 21/07 16:00

London Kensington Hilton, Holland Park Ave t +44 (20) 7603 3355, f +44 (20) 7602 9397

Arrived back in London. Mike had flown in earlier in the day, and spent some time with his friend, Lucas Hardie. We had dinner with Lucas and Rebecca.

Mon 22/07 19:40

Mon 22/07 10:40

BA 5957 10:40 Mon LHR->Dub 11:55, Aer Lingus, Terminal 1

The next morning we flew Aer Lingus to Dublin. There was a traditional Irish welcome. Waited for our bags for an hour, then it was announced that the carousel had broken down, and they were now elsewhere. Meanwhile, a deafening fire alarm blasted through the airport!

Mon 22/07 21:00

Mon 22/07 12:00

go to CIE Desk immediately for transfer

However, the taxi driver was the first of many very friendly Irish folk. He took one look at us and drove us to a backpackers joint, but we were soon settled in an excellent 3 star inner city hotel, with the most helpful staff ever. Great exercise too, as the lift didn't work for 3 days, until Mr O'Reilly came and fixed it.

Mon 22/07 23:00

Mon 22/07 14:00

Dublin 3nts: Hotel Isaacs +353 1 855 0067

Dublin was great. It seems if one pauses to look at a map or a travel book for even a second in Ireland, someone stops and tries to help. We walked over Dublin for 2 days, in every nook and cranny, until Mike begged for mercy. Below is Trinity College, where we saw the Book of Kells and the magnificent Library. It was built by Queen Elizabeth 1, because she was worried that the population was too Catholic, and she thought the University may help convert the population to good Protestants. She also had Irish logic, because Catholics were barred from entering Trinity, so the plan didn't work too well! On the Right below is one of the many Banks of Ireland. Dublin is full of banks. They haven't heard of amalgamations yet. We liked this one because it is being overrun by ivy.
  
In Merrion square, I thought it was my turn to pull Oscar Wilde's leg.

Tue 23/07 Evening

Tue 23/07 Day

More Dublin sightseeing

Mike was more impressed by James Joyce (below), and we both liked Christchurch Cathedral. The Anglo-Norman, Strongbow, built it in 1172. The mummified cat and mouse were trapped in an organ pipe in the 1860s. They were discovered only 10 years ago. One would have thought that the organ might have sounded a little off key during the previous 130 years.
    
There was some debate over whether the pub was "Fitzsimon's" or "Fitzsimons". Anyway, it was a crook joint, because when we turned up at 9.30 pm for dinner, food was off.(In Dublin!) The pub below was where they filmed "My Left Foot". It is supposed to have the best Guiness in Ireland, but was full of blokes when we passed so Maureen did not want to go in. (They weren't too good looking)
  
Not far from our hotel, a truck managed to mount the footpath at the entrance of an old bridge on the Liffey, demolish the fence of the bridge, end up with the cabin underwater, and then burst into flames. Would you believe the driver was OK! Eleven hours later, the street was still closed, and the traffic jam unbelievable. Officials were having a great time scratching their heads for hours and hours.

Tue 23/07 Night

Tue 23/07 Evening

Literary Pub Crawl

In the evening, we went on a literary "pub crawl", which was run by 2 actors and great fun, and a fantastic money-spinner, at 10 Euros a head and about 60 people in tow!

Wed 24/07 18:07

Wed 24/07 9:07

Full Moon, trip to Glendalough

Having "done" Dublin, we went on a bus tour to Glendalough and surrounds in County Wicklow, the next day. Glendalough is magical. Saint Kevin established a monastery here in the 6th century, which grew into a very large teaching centre and settlement. The buildings we saw, including the church with the stone roof, date from the 10th to 12th century. It is set in a very beautiful glacial valley, with lovely woods and lakes (below). As was common in these monastic settlements, a round tower was built, about 30 metres high. Lootings were frequent occurrences over the centuries and the monks stored their valuables in the tower and then ran for their lives. They must have been a strange looking lot. The front of their heads was shaved and at the back they had a long plait. And with looks like that, they were still able to marry and have kids etc.,
  

  

Wed 24/07 Night

Wed 24/07 Afternoon

Trip to Powerscourt

In the afternoon, we went to a house called Powerscourt, which had a beautiful garden, which many people (including myself), think is much better than Versailles, although the central section is similar. Mike is pictured outside the "Pepperpot". This was a decorative tower surrounded by canons.
  

Thu 25/07 17:30

Thu 25/07 8:30

Hertz Dublin Downtown, 149 Upper Leeson St Dublin 4  +353 (1) 660 2255

 Bye, bye to Dublin. We picked up our Toyota Camry look alike and argued for at least an hour as to the best way out of Dublin. Is there one?

Thu 25/07 23:30

Thu 25/07 14:30

David Morris at Clonmel

Saw some pretty towns along the East coast and then met Sheena Ryan's brother, David Morris, at a really flash hotel in Clonmel. This is Sheena's home town, and it was very, very pretty. David showed us around, and we enjoyed the blue skies, great views and interesting company.
  

Fri 26/07 1:00

Thu 25/07 16:00

Ardmore 1nt: Mrs Mary Byron Casey, Byron Lodge 024 94157 Co Waterford p203

We arrived in Ardmore, at our B and B. I tried to tell Mike that B and B's don't have phones, computer connections etc., He is in withdrawal. The view from our room is below. Not bad, is it? We then went to Fawlty Towers (sorry, the Cliff House Hotel), for dinner. The waiter had trouble coping with 2 tables of guests. He brought us the wrong entreé, told us the lamb was off (but a customer after us was served it), tried to wipe the dried food off the plates with a tea towel before giving them to us, but wasn't concerned about the greasy glasses! If we hadn't been starving... At the end of the night he charged us only about half what he should have, and we felt we earned the mistake. As it was only 10pm, we went for a lovely walk around the headland (in the picture below). Can you believe there is this much daylight at 10pm? Saw lots of wildflowers, including lots of heather (on the hill), next to beautiful pink rock.
  

Fri 26/07 9:00

Fri 26/07 0:00

Andrew: Manage Scope, Manage a budget, Develop & monitor a program schedule

 

Fri 26/07 Evening

Fri 26/07 Day

Ardmore, Cork, Kinsale

The following morning we saw Ardmore's 12th century round tower and their 10th to 12th century church of St Declan, with 9th century carvings salvaged from an older church, in very good condition.
    
Decided to skip the Blarney Castle, and do a walking tour of Cork instead. Below on the left is St Finbarr's (Protestant Church), and the Catholic Holy Trinity Church, which was built by the appropriately named "Pain" brothers, for Fr Theo Matthew in 1834. He was a champion of temperance and in his time, whisky production in Cork was halved. The next site on the walking tour was the Imperial Hotel, where Michael Collins spent his last night before he was ambushed and shot. As we both consulted the Lonely Planet, the priest at Holy Trinity approached us and was very helpful, like all the Irish. However, he did insist that at the Imperial they make a very good COFFEE!
  
Well, Kilkenny was described in all the books as the loveliest city in Ireland. Kinsale turned out to be the most wonderful town. We had lunch for 17 Euros (3 courses), at Max's Wine Bar (below). It was possibly the best meal we have ever had! Kinsale is not to be missed.
  

Sat 27/07 1:00

Fri 26/07 16:00

Kenmare 3nts: Ardmore House, Killarney Rd Kenmare t064 41 406 f064 41 406 Co Kerry p281

Kenmare was delightful. Very quiet chap runs the B and B. Some Pommie guests asked if they could see some of the Manchester Commonwealth Games on the tellie. He said that although other TVs in town, had reception for this, his didn't!
Unfortunately it was rainy when we stayed here, or as the Irish weather people say: "Cloudy with outbursts of rain". This must be the equivalent weather-speak to Brissie's. "chance of an afternoon thunderstorm".

 

Sat 27/07

Ring of Kerry

We got up early to go to Portmagee, to catch a boat to the Skellig Islands, where a monastery dating from 600Ad, lies up 600 steps, and where the birdlife is legendary. Unfortunately, when we got to the port, the weather was terrible, and it was cancelled. Another time!

Although rainy, we still managed to see some of the lovely scenery in the famous ring of Kerry. In fine weather, the Lakes around Killarney must be spectacular. We have decided that in Australia we have very efficient dung beetles. Although the countryside is stunning, some of the country smells here are overwhelming. Good job the greenery makes up for it.
  
The Alpine Scenery in the central hills of the ring of Kerry was beautiful. The weather was perfect to see lots of waterfalls as well! The picture in the middle below is called "Ladies View" where Elizabeth 1st 's ladies in waiting visited to view the Lakes of Killarney. On the right below is Ross Castle, very thoroughly restored, where we had an interesting guided tour.
    

 

Sun 28/07

Dingle Peninsula

Connor Pass. As you can see, the Kerry scenery was beautiful, even in the rain.
  
Dingle This is very pretty, and we enjoyed dinner here. Below right is the dental surgery. We think Don Dellit should paint his purple and yellow too.
  
Neolithic forts & dwellings. Around this area are lots of archaeological treasures dating back from 2000BC.
  
We thought the Dingle peninsula was more beautiful than the ring of Kerry, although the weather was slightly better. Around Ireland, you find lots of grottoes like the one below, at all sorts of unexpected places. There was a boating tragedy when we were at Dingle, and the first person the media seems to interview, is the bereaved family's priest, who is involved immediately in counselling at the scene. Must take a lot of strain off the GPs.
  
Lots of birdlife around these peninsulas, and they look very healthy indeed. Have you ever seen so many stone-walled paddocks?
  
Sunday afternoon. The mad Irish were swimming in 16 degree weather. No wetsuits either! This is the beach that featured in "Ryan's Daughter". Beautiful countryside.
  
There were plenty of clouds, but sometimes they were also really picturesque.

Had dinner at the Armada restaurant in Dingle. Staff were great. When they heard we had a long drive back to Kenmare, they even produced extra strong coffee.

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