Maureen Fitzsimon goes to VietNam, Prague, Budapest and Shanghai 2010

Tuesday 5 October

Ho Chi Minh

Maureen outside Ho Chi Minh City's Post Office

Mike in Pasteur Street

Won't be swimming. Pool under renovation. Soaking in the bathtub for ages is a rare luxury, however. Planned to do so much today. Overambitious as usual. Weather muggy but not desperately hot. People really nice and friendly. Walked for hours and hours looking at stuff. Like Jade Buddhist Temple, the parks, the street scenes, important buildings etc., Went to Saigon Square and purchased a waterproof warm coat. The inner layer zips off if you want a lighter jacket. Very nice. $30. Can you believe that? Will be very cosy in Prague now.

Went to two tailors. The first was Viethansilk, at 65 Mac Thi Buio. The second was Cao Vinh, just around the corner from our hotel, at 69 Pasteur St. Ordered one summer, and two winter ladies suits, and Mike ordered one jacket and 4 pairs of trousers. Cheap as chips. The second one looked very professional. Only problem so far is a big photo of John Howard (remember him?) with the owner. First fitting is 2 hours after purchase!

Ho Chi Minh Cathedral.  And Bikes.  The streets swarm with bikes.

So over taxi drivers who try to rip you off. As if you would hand anything over before you get out of the cab! One of them today had a meter going like a ceiling fan! In no time at all, it had racked up 900,000 Dong. (Usual fare is 20,000 Dong). I just laughed and gave him 50,000 for the effort ($2.50). Told him, that for that money, he would have to drive us to London. If you are ever here, the Vinisun cabs are honest, more modern and comfortable, and have real meters.

Going to Huong Lai restaurant tonight for dinner. This place takes in street kids, trains them up in the industry, and finds them jobs. Apparently, great Vietnamese food too.

News from home: Peter celebrated his 28th birthday today, with a cake he cooked and took to work using MY recipe. Apparently a huge hit. He is now distributing my Hummingbird Cake masterpiece recipe to everyone at work, so they can all cook it for their birthdays.

Secondly, we heard that Alicia Coutts won a Gold medal in the swimming. So exciting. Having known her since she was a pregnancy test, and seeing how tough it all been for her � ie losing her Dad when she was 5, and overcoming health problems, I could not be happier for her, or her Mum, Julie. And also she set a record! Wow!

Cheers, Maureen

Wednesday 6 October

Nui Dat, Long Tan, Vung Tau

Big day. Went on a private tour with lovely guide, Thao^[1], and driver, Mr Wong. Headed out to Ba Ria, which looked quite neat. Then on to Nui Dat, where we walked over the soil where the Kiwi and Aussie base was situated in the war. Saw SAS hill, the Dust Bowl (where concerts were held), and Luscombe airstrip. The rubber trees have grown again, and each cut in the trees was yielding � dessert bowl of rubber, every two days.

The jungle is re-established around the airstrip at Luscombe Field, Nui Dat

Placing flowers at the Long Tan Cross

Went into the rubber plantation at Long Tan, and placed flowers (bought earlier at a roadside market) at the Long Tan Cross memorial. There was no one around, except for two children aged 8, who no longer went to school, and hung around the memorial. One had half a thong on one foot.

On to the Lon Phuoc Tunnels, where there is a Buddhist temple. The caretaker turned on some lights, and allowed us to walk along them for a distance. Inside they kept minimal provisions, but there was a hospital room, which we saw. The air vents were well disguised. Tunnels all around Ho Chi Minh allowed the Viet Cong to control a large area, not far from the city centre. They occupied many levels, and had trapdoors in case of gas, or floods. Many of the tunnels around HCM City were started in the 1940s, built to evade French army sweeps of the area. So they were jolly handy when the pesky Yanks, Aussies and Kiwis annoyed them later on.

We then went to Vung Tau, on the South China Sea, and had a lovely and very filling late lunch, which saved us having to eat dinner tonight. On the way, the landscaping was extensive and elaborate. So impressive. Must have armies of gardeners now, instead of soldiers. Marble footpaths too.

We saw not one, but two big �Jesus� statues, and a smaller Mary. One of these is the biggest in the world, surpassing Rio de Janiero at 32m. As you all know, the Big Pineapple is becoming rather tired, in Queensland. As soon as I return I�m ringing up Pammie (the Mayor), and proposing a 35 m Jesus statue for Logan. That should fix those Viet Cong good and proper.

Took the hydrofoil back to HCM city, a trip of 95 minutes. Difficult to see the scenery clearly, due to the spray. Then ran to the tailor for a clothes fitting. Mike then gave me further grounds for divorce, and I�ll tell you all what he did when we get home. No, actually, I�ll tell you now, because he can�t see the problem. Having clutched my handbag, with all our money, and my passport, to my chest with a steely grip and with unfailing dedication since leaving Australia, I asked him to hold it while I tried on my jacket. I turned around and could not believe it. He had placed it on a stool, adjacent to the glass front of the shop, only a tiny little reach inside the store. And turned his back and left it there!! The nicest thing I said was that he was as street smart as a one year old. And the worst thing...... He has now been downgraded. No longer is he allowed to carry $5. Now, he is trusted with ...nothing. But there was karma. Not long after, his foot was run over by a motor bike. Luckily, most Vietnamese plus bikes weigh about 50 kg, tops.

Went to the Sheraton rooftop bar to drown away 2 hours before returning again to the tailor. Beautiful view, which translates as: cocktails are $8 instead of $4 like at our hotel. Actually, we walked around and played chicken in the traffic, and looked at the lights for an hour of this time.

Last day tomorrow. I really think you need a week just in Ho Chi Minh.

Hope everyone is well. Maureen

[1] Thao, or Huynh Ngoc Thao, came highly recommended. She can be contacted at ngocthaovttours @ yahoo.com.vn

Thursday 7 October

Ho Chi Minh City

Great day. However, have decided can never live in Asian polluted cities. My asthma is always terrible, it seems. Just like when I was in China.

Started off early at the Reunification Palace. Those who are my age, or older, will remember the photo of the tank crashing through the gates at the end of the Vietnam war, April 30, 1975. The place has been left fairly much as it was then. We had forgotten how primitive the technology was in 1975. Mike remembered many of the radio devices and the like as just like his army days.

The building itself is a great piece of 60s architecture. The president�s residence was quite upmarket, but decorated with huge elephant feet, and horses� tails!

An exhibit at the War Remnants Museum.  Let us have no more wars; and no more images like these.

War Remnants Museum: Mike and an M113 from his army days.

We then went to the War Remnants Museum. It certainly was the most shocking lesson in the futility and, especially in this case, brutality of war. Many of the photographs and exhibits were donated by Americans, and they showed some terrible atrocities, including those committed on countless women and children. We were told that the Aussies did not take part in such horrid, cruel practices. I hope not. However the whole experience gave me a much, much, better appreciation of what our Aussie diggers saw, and why their demons haunt them. In 1969, the peak of the Vietnam war effort, there were 550,000 American soldiers, 7600 Aussies, and 550 Kiwis, as well as some Thai, Phillipino and other nationalities. In addition were 800,000 South Vietnamese soldiers financed largely by America. From the time of the French, in 1950, until the end of the war, in 1975, it is estimated that 20 million Vietnamese (half the population), had perished due to war.

Gils Brault�s Le Toit Gourmand: Mike, Gils, Maureen and Christian, the nice English-speaking customer.

After that, I really needed air. We took a cab ride to a French Restaurant, some distance out of the city centre. Had a bit of trouble finding it, but called them, and one of the customers could speak English, and came out and found us! Le Toit Gourmand just blew us away. Or it would have, if we were not so heavy when we finished eating there. It was a rare gourmet experience. In the front room of Gils Brault�s house, is the small restaurant. There is a set menu with many choices in each section. Six courses in all! From Scallops with lime and vanilla to lobster pastas, to home-made cheeses, delectable ice-cream, and the leanest, tastiest, duck a la�orange ever! So cheap. We had photos with the customer who rescued us, and Gils, and it was like coming to lunch at a friend�s place. He is such a happy, friendly chef!

Totally stuffed, we returned for the last fitting and pick up at the tailor. The shop assistant there has a Uni degree in English and feels very lucky to have her job. She works 13 hours a day, 6 days a week.

No need for dinner tonight, and off to the airport at 10.30pm.

Have heard Alicia Coutts is raking in the medals. I am beside myself with happiness at the news. Also heard about the toxic spill in Hungary, from the French man who spoke English at the restaurant. Dreadful. Fortunately, not where we are heading.

Love, Maureen

Mike and Maureen in Prague's Old Town Square

Maureen, Andy and Prague sunshine

Wandered out about 11am, firstly, around the immediate area. Andy lives near the big TV tower (Zizkov). It has a lookout and has black baby sculptures with robotic faces crawling all over it. Very weird. All around are lovely parks and gardens. It was brilliant sunshine all day. Down to T shirts. We had a big walk around the beautiful city, and Andy had never seen such big crowds. I think that, firstly, it was a glorious Saturday, and secondly, the city was crawling with men in kilts. Apparently, the Scottish team had played the Czech team the night before (and the tartans lost). Lily white man legs everywhere! Did a sterling 6 hours of walking, which wasn�t bad, since I was feeling so crook Andy once again wanted to take us out to dinner, but I could not face more than a small toasted sandwich.

A benefit of living in the Czech Republic is that Andy is issued with... wait for it... daily food vouchers. If he goes broke looking after us, at least we know he will still eat.

Later, Mike and Andy went out to watch a sound and light show at the Astronomical clock.

Sunday 10 October

Prague

Another spectacular day! Feeling a bit better. Caught the metro to Vitavaska and then did a big walk through the massive Letna Park. Autumn colours were iridescent against the deep blue sky. A metronome took the place of Stalin�s Statue in the 1960s. This was the site of the 1958 Expo, and the art deco buildings were totally chic then. We saw a movie chip in the making of a young people�s band, and a virtually empty beer garden, which is usually the biggest drawcard. Went past the Royal Palace and St Vitus�s Cathedral, and stopped for a drink. Then onto Mala Strana (Little Quarter) and Petrin Hill. Saw the replica Eiffel Tower, and spectacular views of the city.

After all of this uphill climbing, Andy organized that we go down on the funicular. Funny that most people go UP on the funicular.

Eventually, went to a famous restaurant = Pivovarsky dum, established since 1499, the oldest in Prague. Drank their famous beer, a dark, mellow and malty brew, and listened to the chap on the accordion, and all the people singing along - old songs from Western countries.

Went next door to eat, as it was half the price. This was linner (lunch and dinner). When one orders schnitzel in Australia, you get one descent size schnitzel. Here they give you 4 descent size pieces. Obviously, this has to be shared, but they don�t agree. Duck is very big here, but any dead animal will do. There are greasy sausage places all around, packed with cholesterol and calories. Yum Yum.

The trams are made in Germany, and move very fast. We made our way home on the number 9 tram, after a great day.

Tuesday 12 October

Prague -> Budapest

The Americans have been done a grave injustice. We have discovered that the Czechs were the evil murderers who supersized meals. Not to mention adding buckets of salt.

Andy escorted us in the dark early morning to the train station. You cannot catch a train in Prague unless you are young and fit. It is like the Olympics. Or maybe it is the Commonwealth Games. See - I am trendy and up to date! Everyone stands in front of the notice board, as if on the starting blocks. At about 5 minutes before the booked train is to depart, the number of the platform pops up. Then it is every one for themselves as you sprint to the platform, and it can be some distance.

We had a six seat cabin mostly to ourselves. Early on, a young architect with great English, entertained us. Subsequently, quite a number of travellers peeked into our little cell, and decided they could do way better elsewhere.

The train arrived in Budapest late, around 3.15. Outside was chaos. Quite a walk to an ATM for money, and the local metro dug up and closed due to renovations. We must have been looking pretty hopeless when we emerged from the bank, as a passer-by stopped and asked if we were ok. She spoke Deutsch. Dredged up my very rusty German, and had a broken chat with her.( Maria) was laden down with grocery purchases, but still came with us on a bus, then a train, and escorted us to our hotel. She even showed us how to dodge 4 inspectors in a row without buying a single ticket! What an angel! Like Mary Mackillop, reincarnated on her canonization. We gave her a packet of Aussie macadamia biscuits, and tried to leave contact details via our web address, but she had no internet and no children to help her.

Matyas Church at dusk

Matyas Church at night

Gave ourselves a stern talking to and walked for hours around Budapest. Walked up the glitzy shopping area of Vacy Utca, and along the Danube. Then over the chain bridge (opened in 1849) and up to the Castle area and North Buda. Matyas Church and the Fisherman�s Bastion are landmarks. I photographed them at sunset and then evening. Eventually went down the hill, went back across the Chain bridge, and viewed St Istvan�s (Stephen�s) Basilica at night. Very impressive. Huge and beautiful. Then wandered to a restaurant, had dinner, and am now on the verge of needing CPR. Oh! To be young again where things don�t constantly hurt!

Weather is quite warm. Skies are still blue with the usual tinge of European smog.

We are in the Alfa Fiesta Hotel, in the Jewish area, where some still wander by in Orthodox Jewish gear. Very basic, but clean and comfortable, and spacious.

Hoping we wake up tomorrow.

Cheers to all,

Maureen

Wednesday 13 October

Budapest

Wandered off after breakfast to the stunning St Istvan�s (St Stephen�s) Basilica. My stepfather, Steve, is named after this saint, and has carried on the saintly tradition.

Now, we are total experts on Cathedrals in Europe. Have now seen hundreds. Have to say, this is an impressive edifice. Many cathedrals have an unfinished look. Not St Istvans. The bling is spectacular. With a 96 metre dome, the exact height of the Parliament building, it was not completed until 1905. St Stephen dominates the altar. However, they really stick it up the Italians with the Basilica qualifying bit. The saint relic is actually an arm. Yes, a 1000 year old mummified forearm of St Stephen. To think that the Italians in Sienna were so proud of St. Catherine�s finger. This really gazumps them. Not only that, but the arm has travelled more of the world than Captain Cook. It went to Croatia in the 13th century to protect it from the Tartars. Then on to Venice and the Royal Palace in Buda. It finally arrived home on 20 August 1945 � St Stephens Day. Fantastic stuff.

Outside is a huge square, under which is an automatic carpark. Your car goes on to a platform, and is stacked mechanically below. Very automated.

We wandered back to the Danube and the Chain bridge and took some early in the day photos. Then on to a tram and back to near our hotel for the most delicate choccie cake and cappuccino. Total $5.

Maureen outside the Hungarian Parliament

Mike at the Eternal Flame Monument to those who perished in 1956

Went on for a tour of Parliament. Elections were only 10 days ago, and they have changed a hung parliament for a very right wing government. Silly buggers.

The building is stunning. Bling. Bling. It has the lot. Crown Jewels, magnificent staircases, spellbinding artworks and a National Assembly unfortunately accommodating over 400 MPs. It looks across the Danube, and outside are memorials to the people lost in the 1956 uprising. An eternal flame flickers on the simple memorial. The brass cigar stands, built to hold unfinished ciggies of members who dash into parliament for the interesting bits, were a nice touch. In the Commo days, they built an extra bit on top of the building so it would be higher than the Cathedral. Says a lot about the Commos. It has since been taken down.

Then on to Opera House for a guided tour. Nineteenth century opulence and grandeur. An age when people came to the opera �to be seen�. We saw them setting up for �Figaro� that evening. No women are allowed in the Prime Minister�s box. The �wives� sit in the adjacent area. Wonder what Julia would do? We paid to see a �mini concert�. This was the only disappointment. We stood against the wall in the bar area, and a single chap pretended to play a mandolin, and then did a song with a backing audio provided by a $50 tape deck! Two songs in total. Talk about tacky.

On to more trains and trams to the Gellert bathhouse. We felt so holy. We only evaded one fare all day. Mike stayed in the foyer and played with his phone. As usual. I went inside and tried the mixed pools and the women�s pools, including those at 28C , 36C and 38C. Unfortunately, it has not helped my plantar fasciitis (heel spurs). Will continue to limp around Europe.

On, past ghoulish lampposts at the New York Palace Hotel, to Kulacs Restaurant, an authentic Hungarian place. Goulash and Venison stew were devoured, and home to bed.

I am convinced that my stepfather, Steve (Istvan), was not fleeing the Communists in 1956. It had to be the cigarette smoke. Just as well he fled. We were told that unemployment is at least 12 per cent and the economy is a mess, so they are all slowly suiciding by tobacco.

Tomorrow we meet the step relatives. They are picking us up from the hotel and taking us on an extravaganza.

xx Maureen

Thursday 14 October

Rakoczifalva and Szolnok

Right on time, Pista arrived at the Hotel Alfa Fiesta for our Hungarian country adventure. Pista had only a few words with our hotel receptionist, and the latter immediately advised us: �He is a good man�. What presence!

Pista had little English, but I had what he called the �machina� �my language translator. A bit cumbersome to use, and the butt of many of his jokes. Again, we were blessed with great weather. Sunny and clear blue skies. We drove 2 hours to his village of Rakoczifalva. This is near Szolnok, which has 75,000 people.

Maureen with Pista, who suggests that 11am is the perfect time to start drinking Palinka

Bori slaving over a hot stove - with fabulous results!

Apparently, it is the custom to start the day with Palinka. What a fiery shot of pure alcohol! Apparently, it was flavoured strawberry or fruit. Hard to tell the difference. It was like swallowing dragon�s breath.

Bori, Pista�s wife, had been cooking for days. Just that day, she had been up since 4am preparing for our visit. Pista had driven to Budapest the night before and stayed with Bori�s sister. They had taken the week off as part of their annual holiday. We felt like royalty.

Not only was the garden immaculate, and the lovely house spotless, but Bori had cooked mountains of food. You have no idea! There was a soup cooked with many vegetables, pasta, and chicken, followed by pork meat loaf, turkey and chicken schnitzels (of different types), pasta, potato, another delicious type of chicken, masses of vegies, and the rest. Just the leftovers filled an entire fridge at the end. Of course, this was served with wine, and lovely fruit at the end.

We talked to Steve (my stepfather) on Skype, but Bori had basic English, and I had the machina, and �Google translate� so we were fine communicating.

We went 10km to Szolnok and had Dobos. This was the type of cake we had eaten for lunch the day before in Budapest. (Then, it was the only thing we had eaten for lunch!) On to a specialty coffee shop, which purported to have hand-picked gourmet coffees from around the world. The Aussie one was called �Macaccino� (with macadamia essence) and apparently known as �Jillabilly� in Australia. News to me. But good marketing. We had an unusual �Javanese� orange coffee. Doubt that orange trees grow in Java, but it was delicious.

Then we walked around Szolnok, taking in the sights. The local theatre group was presenting �Jesus Christ Superstar�. Probably not sponsored by the Communist Party. There was a good art show in the synagogue, with quite varied styles by the exhibiting artist.

Pista was full of fun and mischief. Quite a larrikin. Bori is sweet and delightful. They continued the grand tour, by taking us to the posh Garden Hotel where we ate another delicious Hungarian meal with more wine. Really fantastic, but Bori�s cooking is better. Could not understand why we did not go home and just eat leftovers. So much trouble and expense, just for us.

Then home for more of the ferocious spirit and champagne to toast. We then skyped Zoli, their son, living in Florida. He stayed with us for a few weeks in 1998, and with my mother and Steve for a year. His English is fantastic after 9 years in the USA.

Bori looked exhausted, and we trotted off to bed. We had an upstairs bedroom which was just luxurious, with an ensuite with a spa tub! Beat that! Central heating made us warm as toast. Their house is small but exquisite, and quite big for two people.

Friday 15 October

Rakoczifalva -> Prague

Up at 5am to drive 2hrs to Budapest. Why they did not just put us on the train or bus, I do not know. The whole visit they would not let us pay one cent. We arrived an hour early for the 9.28 train, and it was quite cold at Budapest Kelleti (central) station. 6�C. Capuccino helped.

We delivered a small hamper weighing about 3 kg to Bori and Pista and looked forward to having extra space in our bag. We have left Bori and Pista with bags and bags of presents. Liqueur, wine, Bohemian crystal! Huge sausages for Andrew, and mountains of picnic food , beer and water for the train. Three extra bags! They had home-made jam for Steve, with tubes of Hungarian goo, and other very Hungarian condiments. Probably twice the 3Kg we started with. Good job we pack light!

Will arrive in Prague at 4.20 pm, and meet Andy after work.

Life does not get any better than this!

Love

Maureen

Saturday 16 October

Prague

Arrived back in Prague late Friday. Andy walked us into the city. Only took a few hours. Ate at a vegetarian restaurant where we were one hundred years older than the rest of the patrons. Andy noticed that all the other patrons (almost) were �Barbies�, but I suspected that it was a lesbian lipstick joint. Didn�t mind that, but the cigarette smoke was overwhelming. Walked around and saw more sights and collapsed at home.

Maureen, Andy and Autumn colours by the river in Prague

Mike and some notable building in Prague

Today walked around many streets in the city and went shopping for presents. Andy and Mike love shopping. Really impressed by boomerangs with �Praha� (Prague), embossed on them. Started to drizzle, which was in response to weather becoming fine in Brissie. Autumn colours were lovely.

After much gazing at magnificent architecture, and a visit to a pub where they were horrified that I put lemonade in my beer, we arrived back at Old Town square. Food festival in progress with lots of mega barbeques, huge woks, sweets and hot wine. Supersized everything, including cheese and animals on spits.

So nice to see ancient horse and carriages with drivers dressed in costumes from 1800s � talking on their mobile phones as they drove the horses!

Finally, staggered home with presents and went out to a pizza joint. Cigarette smoke not too bad. Although marijuana is legal, not too much is about. Nicotine more addictive!

Finally have had a day where I can wear my $30 warm coat from Vietnam.

Cheers,

Maureen

Sunday 17 October

Prague

Blue, but cold skies. In the middle of the day it was 5 degrees. Made another omelette for breakfast with the delicious sausage donated by Bori and Pista.

Andy and Maureen at Konopi�tě Castle

Maureen, Mike and Autumn leaves in the grounds of Konopi�tě Castle

Then off on the train to Bene�ov, about an hour to the south east of Prague. Konopi�tě Castle, which is just a couple of kms outside the town, dates from the 13th century. It was more recently and famously owned by the Archduke Franz Ferdinand. Yes, the one we all learnt about at school, who was assassinated, precipitating WW1.

All these years, I felt sorry for the poor chap. Minding his own business, and then ... bang! Have now lost sympathy. During his life he was a fanatic hunter. He shot over 279,000 animals for sport. These include European bison, bears, and all manner of now rare creatures. He hunted all over the world, including Australia. Thousands of the poor beasts have been dealt with by the taxidermist and hang on the walls of the castle. Each is catalogued carefully. Quite a sight. Strange that he was gunned down himself. Don�t think a taxidermist was involved in his case.

There was also a museum devoted to his obsession, collecting statues of St George fighting the dragon. Now, when Pete and Andy were in grade 1, I read the story �If You Meet a Dragon� over and over with them. The illustrations clearly displayed huge vicious dragons. The dragons in the museum � all 200 of them � were pissy little things. Glorified frilly lizards.

Many of you know that Del Reynolds, who taught all the boys in year 3, was named �Mrs Dragon Lady Breath�, by Andy, when he was in grade 1. Andy definitely was not referring to a puny reptile. She is definitely of the calibre of the grade one story book. Nevertheless, it was an impressive collection of hobby dragons.

The autumn colours were just beautiful. Set on a lovely lake, the castle is certainly not the most opulent we have seen, but Franz would certainly have been nice and comfy.

We could not see a taxi or a bus, so walked back into town, and thawed out on the train on the way back to Prague.

Monday 18 & Tuesday 19 October

Prague -> Helsinki -> Shanghai

Went out to an interesting pub for dinner on last night with Andy. Supersized as usual.

Horrible that we had to say goodbye to Andy. It had been 10 months since seeing him this time, and we are planning to see him again in 6 months, as 10 months is too long.

We had a wonderful time in Prague, and left with so much more to see and do. Andy treated us like Royalty. As we deserve.

Flew to Helsinki and then to Shanghai. Madness again at Helsinki airport and only just made the connection. No sleep. Finnair were fine, but the plane was packed. Took 50 minutes just to proceed through immigration and customs in Shanghai. Imagine if we had declared the home made jams, and Hungarian tubes of goo!

The Maglev train only travelled at 301 km/hr, covering the 30 km in less than 8 mins. We had heard about 450 km/hr. So smooth. Then we caught a taxi to our hotel � still quite a distance.

Our driver is obviously a very successful member of the clergy. There is no doubt that people must pray like mad when he drives! Only the taxi driver I met in Istanbul eclipses him. (Carole Hood knows!) At one stage he did inexplicably stop. Then he ran over to a wall and relieved himself very publicly. Ah! Kulcher!

Our hotel, the Salvo, is near Nanjing Rd and the Bund. Great views. I booked the cheapest room on Expedia at $130 a night, and it turned out to be a suite. We are slumming it in a huge room with lounge and big bath, and Japanese shower! The sting is in the cappuccinos - $8 each. To be avoided.

So happy that they let us into our room at 11am for a little lie down.

Maureen on the Shanghai waterfront

Mike with some of his new Chinese friends on the Bund

Then we did a big walk with 1.3 billion others along the Bund. The smog is just horrible, and Asia always makes me feel like I am suffocating, but the buildings are very classy, and it is very neat.

Yet again, Mike is a celebrity. We find that over and over again, people ask to be photographed with him. It has happened in Spain, Norway, Russia, and now here! Do they all think he is a troll?? Is there a horror movie on TV with a character just like him? Today, two young chicks from Guangzhou (what a coincidence), and a whole family without a word of English, were so excited to be photographed with him over and over. This follows on from Russian soldiers, and Korean tourists in Spain � all excited as hell to see him. How intriguing!

We went on the Bund sightseeing tunnel, across the river and back. Very Chinese! You travel in a pod, like on the London Eye, but in a tunnel under the river, and are entertained by a laser light show with blow up dolls and screens with marine life, and all manner of kitsch. Sort of tacky to the n^th.

Then we went to a restaurant called Mr and Mrs Bund, on the 6^th floor of a building on the corner of Nanjing Rd and the Bund. So classy. French. We sat in armchairs, and our cutlery came in boxes. The waiters wore.... braces. Maybe that is why Mike is so trendy? The views were incredible though the smog, which actually gives it a mystical feeling in the dark. At one point the waiters brought in a huge bouquet of flowers, and sparklers and the Bee Gees �How Deep is Your Love� filled the restaurant. A young Chinese man went on one knee and proposed to his sweetheart, and the crowd went wild. Especially the 40 or so Americans near us. This was our expensive meal of the holiday and set us back $140 in total. Not bad for Michelin class.

Mike knocked the water all over my cutlery, menu and me, so I squelched in my chair as I dined and looked like I had wet my pants. As I always say, perfection is hard to achieve.

Then walked it off for the length of Nanjing Rd, and now home. Will probably go to the Expo tomorrow.

Love,

Maureen

Wednesday 20 October

Shanghai World Expo 2010

Mike with some of his new Chinese friends at Shanghai World Expo 2010

Thank God we did not take one of our sons with us to the World Expo! It has been difficult enough. One after another group of usually young, and mostly female, but sometimes middle aged, Chinese have just HAD to have their picture with Mike, and sometimes me. Imagine if we had some good looking young bloke with us! We thought we were the butt of a joke, the likes of which was not obvious to us. It was explained that Westerners, for many Chinese, are still a novelty. (Especially ones who look like Trolls - my comment). We are now stars of dozens of Chinese photos. And speaking of photography, I have now seen the world record set for the number of cameras snapping away per square km. The Chinese are fanatical photographers.

Maureen with the imposing Chinese Pavillion at Shanghai World Expo 2010

Wow! Do the Chinese know how to put on a show??? It made our Expo 88 look like Birdsville compared to New York. One million visitors a day are security scanned thoroughly, and roam this huge site. Unfortunately, the queues for many of the exhibits were up to 5 hours long. And no loo stops on the queue! So we �did� the Aussie presentation, and the African Nations, and the Pacific Nations, and then spent 9 hours solid walking around looking at the amazing exteriors of the country exhibits. And were they ever amazing!

The Aussie Pavilion did us proud. We met a Frenchman who had �done� it twice. No mean feat, considering the length of the queues. Expo is so popular that no tickets have been sold in October. We were so lucky to have purchased ours over the internet a couple of months ago. The Chinese were amazed that blond Aussie blokes in the pavilion spoke Mandarin. We had a good chat to one of them, and he is definitely a KRudd prot�g�... but with personality plus.

Mike & Maureen with Tanya from the Namibia Pavillion at Shanghai World Expo 2010

Thanks to Malcolm (my work colleague) we met up with Tanya in the Namibia pavilion and gave her the photos taken of herself and Malcolm�s granddaughter, only weeks earlier at the Expo. She was ecstatic! We were given cold Namibian beers, beautiful books on Namibia, and all sorts of trinkets. So lucky, especially as Tanya was about to clock off when we met her at 3.30pm. Could have missed her.

We met many people, including an Italian and Aussie speaking Chinese chap who served us lunch and who had worked in Sydney.

Needless to say, my heel pain is in the stratosphere. If we ever did a similar day again, we have decided to hire a wheelchair, and take turns pushing each other. At least we had decided this, prior to seeing the wheelchair queue at the Italian pavilion. Can there be that many crook visitors in a million? Or are the Italians just shonky?

Everything was beautifully set out, and Mike really liked the sign in the �Gents� which, in English, indicated left for �Urinals� and right for.... �Stools�. Now that�s telling them! Numerous signs pointed to �Carefully ground obstacles � Becare Walk�. Of course, these were speed bump kind of things; hiding cables. The Chinese are so organized and perfectionistic. They actually looked fantastic in all their uniforms.

Fell into a taxi, which took off while Mike still had one foot on the ground. I screamed. The driver apologised. Didn�t know that Mike was an Olympic right-footed hopper. How sexy can you get?

Night view along the Shanghai Bund from the terrace at New Heights restaurant.

Went to a restaurant at �3 on the Bund� called �New Heights�. Magnificent views. Owned by an Aussie. Have booked at his other restaurant, �Laris�, tomorrow night. A Chinese lady, who lives in Los Angeles came up to us in the restaurant, and said she had seen us at Expo! Amongst a million! On second thoughts, there is only about one Westerner per 10,000 people, so maybe not so strange. She is a famous artist and was there with her �dealer�! (Not the kind of dealer I normally hear about at the surgery!)

Now need foot CPR. So lucky we had fine weather. 24°C. Who could ask for better?

Love,

Maureen

Thursday 21 October

Shanghai

Ritzy shopping centre loo signs

SWFC Computerised Loo; 94^th floor view; Eww!

At the end of a holiday, some things can still stun we worldly-wise tourists. In fact, almost bring tears to the eyes. Yes, I am talking about lovely loos. Today we saw loo heaven. Firstly, there were some rather exquisite numbers at a ritzy shopping centre on the Pudong side of the river. Marble, seat covers, children�s little loos � all Western. Nice. Then, at the Shanghai World Financial Centre we encountered perfection. Totally computerised loos. It took 2 hours just to read the instructions. Almost. You could dial up the warmth of the seat, the force of the water to wash your nether regions, the rinse duration, drying speed, and goodness knows what else. Prejudices die hard. Somehow, I cannot come at toilet bowl water coming anywhere near certain parts of the body. But, the control panel certainly had the wow! factor. The loo even had a view from the 94th floor through a full glass wall, all over the city. Will be just perfect when the high rise next door is completed.

View from Level 100 of the Shanghai World Financial Centre

View of New Century Rd intersection from SWFC. Pedestrian crossings are a major expedition across 12 lanes of traffic and two rows of trees; diagonally!

Did the whole tourist thing at the Financial centre. Went up 100 floors, to see the view through windows and the perspex floor. It was fine, but breezy. From the ground, we thought the smog had improved. However, it was still absolutely horrible from the 100th floor, but no doubt way better than usual.

The paparazzi were a little less persistent today, but still quite significant. I can now spot a Uni student studying English at 100 metres. So excited to talk to us. Once again, we generously decided against charging for our photos, in the interests of good international relations. Kevvy will be so proud of us.

There appear to be scads of Uni students from all over China, on holiday, visiting Expo. So most of the fan club is not from Shanghai, a city accustomed to foreigners. Several have been from Guangzhou, where Andy and Brenda lived for a year. Tonight, we were even invited out for the evening with some students, but had already booked at Laris Restaurant. They must have been shattered.

The metro is very modern and very cheap. Compared to most parts of the world, the stations are quite a distance apart, so the walking was still considerable.

We went to the area around Nanjing West, and then on to People�s Park, on the site of an old racecourse. This sinful establishment was razed by the Commos and beautiful park land, a city hall, museums, a theatre and the like, take its place. All very impressive.

Finished up at Laris� restaurant, which was quite decadent.

Very sad to hear this evening that our friend Debbie Heiner lost her mother suddenly in a motorized scooter accident. Deb�s family has had several episodes of bad luck this year.

Tomorrow, we will walk around the old �French Concession� and the Old City, before heading to the airport for an evening flight to Australia, unfortunately through Sydney. Then back to work to pay the Visa bill.

We have certainly been very fortunate to have had such a fantastic holiday, especially catching up with Andy. So this is the last blog, dear fan club. (Hi! Mum!) No doubt, we will return to a gleaming spotless house, looked after to perfection by Robbie. Mary Pease knows what I mean!

Love, Maureen

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