Fitzsimon Tour of Italy 2009

Hong Kong Harbour Light Show

Robbie, Andy and Brenda capturing the light show

Hot Pot! Yum!

Robbie, Brenda, Andy, Mike and Maureen at Hotpot Express

This weekend it has been rainy. We slowed down. I could not get accustomed to the time change until today, so not sleeping well. Mike can and does sleep anywhere and anytime. Went out to see the light show on Hong Kong harbour and then to a great "hot pot" restaurant last night. Different and brilliant. (Hotpot Express, 1/F, 21-23 Hillwood Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3520-3800)

Brenda and Andy at Stanley Markets

Today, we went to Stanley, and enjoyed the markets and a wonderful seafood lunch.

Hong Kong is wonderful to visit. So much to do. Andy has even taken a pair of Mike's trousers to have the local tailors copy a few times and send to Australia.

Poster celebrating the 60th Anniversary of the People's Republic of China, 1949-2009

The sky is the limit with bamboo scaffolding

Mongkok street scene, Robbie and Mike

Mongkok. That's not rain; it's the drips from 1000 air-conditioners.

We did lots of touristy things in Hong Kong on Wednesday. Started with the magnificent �Peak� Tram. Views from the top were just stunning. Over 120 years old, and still a fantastic tram. Then did markets, like the �Ladies Market, Fish Market, and Flower Market.� At one stage, a seller took us into a dingy building, and up 17 floors to see fake copies of designer handbags. Really tacky quality. For nice ones, Hong Kong is as expensive as Australia, but I bought one as my souvenir, and one for a gift. Finding our way around was often confusing. We found Andy�s map hard to read. However, the trick was to just stand around with the map unfolded looking concerned. People just flock to you, and help with directions. So no need to really read the map at all. Just pretend.

Andy and Brenda, Lan Kwai Fong district

Went to dinner at a noodle place near Soho, and did a big walk around the Lan Kwai Fong area with Brenda and Andy. There is a huge escalator, 800 metres long, in sections, going up the hill. Saw the night club area, with Aussies, Poms and Yanks hanging out. The Haagen-Daz was to die for at the end! As we had walked solidly for 12 hours plus, any excuse to sit down would have been good!

Maureen and Robbie at the Ruins of St. Paul's

Robbie and Mike at Ama Temple

The Grand Lisboa casino dominates Macau's skyline

On Thursday, we went to Macau. Recommended by Noela L�Estrange. She is right, as always. It was a great, long, but relaxing day. Very strange political situation. Became a part of China in 1999. However, you still need passports, immigration forms, and the eternal health questionnaires with measurement of body temperature. You can have as many children as you like, and the leader of the area is actually democratically elected. Also capitalism is alive and well. It is the only area of China with Casinos. And do they do well or what? MGM recently spent over a billion dollars on a new casino and recouped its capital in just over a year.

Praia Grande, a Portuguese/Macanese restaurant

Decided to do an organized tour, as we were so tired. Met a great chap called Steve, (aren�t all Steves great?) a government registered tour guide. For $40 each he drove us around in his air-conditioned car, and showed us everything. Could probably have beaten him down in price, but I always feel sorry for them. He gave us great value, and we loved it all. It is so neat, interesting and very attractive. Finished up around 4.30 pm and we were starving. He took us to Praia Grande, a Portuguese restaurant, which was a trip highlight. Not expensive. Great traditional Portuguese and Macanese food. At that hour, we were the only ones there. The Filipino waiters serenaded us. We danced. Left when it was dark, and saw the lights of the 33 Casinos. If I was an architect, my dream job would be a brief which said � �you have unlimited money, and you have to make the building visually stunning and exciting�. Such is the life of a Casino architect. Pity about the gambling aspect. More immigration, health and customs forms and we toddled back to Hong Kong at a late hour.

Shenzhen: 5 levels of shopping

Shenzhen: Tired shoppers ... with the new suitcase Maureen had to buy to carry all the loot.

Today, we went to China. The proper China. Shenzhen. This time they took Rob�s temperature and told him to sit to one side on a chair. After a while, they measured it again and let him go! For real! In my travels I have seen some heavy tactics from shopkeepers, but these people are unbelievable. I told one girl, that her persistence will one day make her President of China. They kept on bobbing up! Did quite a bit of shopping, and it was somewhat cheaper than Australia, where I get no time to shop. Of course, the clothes were size 10. However, handbags and shoes were in abundance. Luckily, I have small feet! Even Mike bought a new pair of shoes. As we have such small bags, we had to buy a suitcase to carry it all. That was a second, and really cheap. Went to a lovely Dim Sum Restaurant in Shenzhen, and the food was the best I have ever tasted. Once again, combined lunch and dinner at 4pm. Very cheap. The Chinese are so polite and friendly, everywhere we go. Especially in the real Communist China. Then lots of immigration and health declaration forms and queues, the MRT, the ferry and we are now back at Andy�s and it is 11 pm.

Noah's Ark Hotel, a "full-size replica of Noah's Ark"

View from Andy and Brenda's living room featuring the Tsing Ma Bridge

Noah's Ark near the bridge, left, Andy and Brenda's apartment, right.

Rob is on the couch in Andy's little apartment. We are staying in the only hotel near Andy (and only around 200 metres away). It is a brand new YMCA place with a "Noah's Ark" theme. It only opened a week ago and we are possibly their first ever Western guests. They really don't know what they are doing there. Had to look around for a receipt book, no credit cards. Each time we want to get in or out, it takes several phone calls, and a small contingent of security guards to open massive security doors. We are the only Westerners and they seem intrigued that we are from Australia. They plan their target to be Chinese group tours, so we are out of their league.

It is great to see Andy and Brenda, who are looking fantastic. Always very physically active, they have been on a health kick and are both so lean. (and Brenda was great to start with!). Rob is enjoying his stay very much. We went out to dinner last night, and ate a traditional banquet. So expensive. A treat from Andy, which was very generous.

How many Cardinals and Bishops...

... followed by how many priests?

Today, Mike and I went to St Peter�s for 10.30 am Mass- in Latin. Brought back some memories from early childhood, as the Mass was in Latin up until we were in mid primary school. Had it drummed into us by the nuns, and it�s amazing how familiar it all sounded. Mike had previously attended Mass at St Peter�s on the day he flew back to Australia to attend his father�s funeral in 2002.
 
There was a translation in the booklet we were given into Spanish, Italian and English. Various people participated in readings etc., speaking in German, Spanish, English, Italian, French, and other languages. The choir was magnificent, and it was the full 100 bishops, priests etc., deal. Full smells and bells. Peter Mills would appreciate that I am finally doing real Catholic stuff.

Swiss Guards, Vatican City

Mike in St Peter's Square (er, Oval?)

Afterwards there were broadcasts, in St Peter�s Square, of Pope Benny doing another Mass i, all on big screens. The Vatican is very techno savvy these days. We had good seats, arriving a little early, but there would have been about a billion Catholics there, give or take a few, plus the odd Muslim in a headscarf, Proddie etc., for good measure. A good time was had by all. It was quite magnificent.

However, Benny did not show for his weekly PR gig. Away on holidays perhaps?

Maureen and Mike at Bocca della Verita

2. Bocca della Verita � where the most famous scene of �Roman Holiday� was shot. (Translated: Mouth of Truth) The legend is that if you put your right hand in the mouth of this mask-shaped disc while telling a lie, the mouth will snap shut and bite your hand off. Obviously, I put my left hand in, and Mike his right hand.

Sunday Mass in the Basilica di San Giovanni

3. We rounded up the day by visiting the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano. This was the first Christian basilica built in Rome. This the Pope�s home church, as he is the bishop of Rome. However, the naughty church nicked the huge bronze doors from the Roman forum. There are 15 absolutely enormous statues inside, including the 12 apostles. They certainly give a message of power and authority.

Mike at the Colosseum

Di and Dan at the Colosseum

Gold Roman Coins in a temporary exhibition inside the Colosseum

Valtrex at the Colosseum

Today, was the big one to tour ancient Rome. ie Nero and his gang! Started off delighted that they predicted a 28 degree day with showers. Sure beats 37 degrees and totally sunny. In the end, the weather amounted to 2 spits of rain, which was even better, as all of the sights of Ancient Rome are pretty much outdoors. Di was prepared as all good nurses always are. She was a bit miffed when I pointed out that her �Valtrex� umbrella, donated by a drug rep, was actually advertising a drug for genital herpes. However, it should be noted that Mike and I have previously done the �Viagra� tour of Jordan, so a precedent had been set.

Started at the Colosseum. Only saw the outside last time. Very impressive. Just love the thought of all those sacrifices. We are now really into people being skinned alive(ie the Apostle Bartholomew), and being grilled (St Lawrence.). St Pete got a relatively good deal, being crucified upside down.

Seem to be plenty of American tourists, despite them not having Kevin Rudd to keep them out of recession (That comment is for Steve!).

Roman Baths, Palatine Hill

Overlooking Circus Maximus from the Palatine Hill

Maureen overlooking the Roman Forum from the Palatine Hill

After losing our way, and only taking ten thousand or so wrong steps, we toured the Palatine Hill and Roman forum. They sure knew how to build bathhouses in those days! Did another 10.000 steps (uphill), which annoyed Di�s huge blister on her foot just a little.

Maureen and the view NW towards St Peter's and the Pantheon.

View south-east towards the Colosseum, Forum and Palatine Hill

Dan and Mike with torpedo boat, Naval war memorial museum

Ended up at the war memorial building, Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II � pretty impressive!! Did the Carole Hood suggestion and went up in the lift for a fantastic view of all of Rome.

Maureen & Di: fine dining at Ciampini

Spanish Steps, Piazza di Spagna... for all your people-watching needs

Spanish Steps

Just missed the metro. Look at the sign. 3 minutes till the next train!

This evening, again did the Carole Hood thing. Went to her suggested restaurant (Ciampini), at the top of the Spanish Steps. Had to come the heavy with them to remove us from a couple of people smoking very strong cigarettes into our faces. Seriously thought about doing the histrionic patient thing and gasping for breath while clutching my chest and falling to the ground convulsing. Decided to just threaten that I might need an ambulance. After that, it was excellent. They moved us, and the food and service were wonderful.

Can�t believe how quickly time has flown. We all leave Rome on Monday.

Bar Moretto - special "rip-off" prices for tourists

Bar Moretto - avoid

Bar Moretto We went to a nearby ordinary sort of cafe, and made one big mistake. Did not get a quote for our sandwiches and soft drinks. Desperate to sit down, we had forgotten about the tourist sharks. How about 6 Euros for a soft drink and 49 Euros for 2 people for sandwiches and soft drinks!!! Once bitten, twice shy. We have now been to the supermarket and bought our own groceries again.

Competitors in the Italian Championship Slalom

Most Italian drivers think they are this guy.

Spin-out on the final corner. Bugger!

Team Lancia nearly gets a wheel off the ground

... and the crowd goes wild at the final turn!

Even the boys in blue had a go ... just to make sure the course was safe :)

Dan (in the shade) lines up his shot on the final corner. No 121 goes through the chequered flag

Walking down our front paddock, through the olive trees, we were at the finish line of the car race. As if our mountain road is not curly enough! They added extra obstacles. Only one ambulance job. Talk about colourful and noisy. It all ended with fireworks at midnight.

Still have not been able to find the internet. Asked someone in town, and they suggested the local library! We are still connecting by phone to Pete and he is putting news on the internet.

Most Italians seem more lifestyle focused than we are. Even in the most touristy areas, many shops close between 1 and 4pm. They might open at 9 or 10, and finish at 7.30. Then they complain that they are really suffering in the recession!

Cortona: way cute

Lunch at Cortona; Di, Dan, Maureen & Mike

Monday, we had a big day. Rated, possibly the best. Went to Cortona, a hill town. Very cutesy. Walked up and up, then up and up, and more up and up, to the top of the hill for fantastic views. Of course, at the top you found a descent sized church, monastery etc., Saw other churches, medieval streets etc., Had lunch in the main square sampling local cuisine and wine (our first real restaurant meal). We are becoming addicted to gelati. Especially when it is 37 degrees, and you have to wear clothes below the knee and with sleeves, to enter a church. Not to mention when you spend all day doing step classes!

Assisi

Decided to drive on further, past the glorious Lake Transimeno, and Perugia, into Umbria and to Assisi. Last time Mike and I travelled there, they were still recovering from an earthquake. They have painstakingly restored the 800 year old Giotti frescoes, crumb by crumb! Assisi has such a lovely outlook, and is the real deal religious stuff, with lots of Franciscan monks and devout Christians. A funeral was underway. Expected lots of Italian emotional outpouring of grief. The poor bugger must have been 100 and demented or simply, not very nice, because everyone looked pretty happy. Di and Dan enjoyed the visit and are coping well with mega Catholic stuff, including the souvenir shops with lots of Catholic bling. Will be awarding Di and honorary degree in Catholic theology at the end o f all this super religious tourism.

Dan and Di have settled into the back seat of the car, happy not to have to cope with the moody GPS. Mike says I give too much information (reading the GPS), then not enough, etc. I have never encountered such quiet back seat passengers. Perhaps we simply cannot hear them above our shouting. Saw a big truck rollover yesterday. This makes a total of 4 serious accidents. (5 including Mike's scrape on the rock wall.) We thought the Spanish drivers and roads were bad.!

Having another day off Tuesday, and then a really big one Wednesday, doing touristy things and then ending up in Rome.

All the other tourists were trying to hold the tower up.

Went to Pisa. 30�C and clear blue skies. In contrast to bleak and wintery when Di was last in Pisa, and rainy when I was last there. All new to Mike and Dan. The church is simply stunning. Pisano took 10 years to craft the pulpit alone. Wonderful artwork, and especially the marble. Also modern altar and pulpit which were beautiful. Same for the Baptistry. Lovely luscious green lawns outside. Heaps of souvenir shops, and the usual illegal Somali immigrants trying to tout their wares. Did not go up the leaning tower because we did not pre-book, and it is so expensive, and we were too lazy to climb the stairs.

Took a walk through the squares and medieval old city and it was just beautiful. They even had a lady to take the 30 cents for the toilet, so we did not have to stress about coins in slots (Especially, Di!).

Palazzo Pfanner, Lucca

Went on to Lucca. Much nicer than anticipated. Walked around the city wall which was popular with roller bladders, cyclists and people in wheelchairs. It is the only city wall I can remember with lots of shady trees. Lovely streets, squares, and quaint shops. Could not face going into another church.

Toured through Pistoia, famous for inventing the pistol. Now famous for manufacturing trains. Mastered another grocery store. It is a real challenge finding a trolley and returning it, let alone deciphering all the labels.

Have stocked up on beer and wine for tomorrow. Our road is closed for the big car race. It is the Italian Championship Slalom car rally. Our tiny village is in the middle of the course, and we are housebound. Plan to watch the petrol heads do crazy things.

We will give the Italian drivers full marks for fast reflexes. As far as obeying any traffic signs or road manners they are a dead loss. We are also wondering if it is compulsory to have one arm totally outside the car window.

Cannot believe that we have been here 2 weeks. Tuscany is just like in the movies, especially where we are living.

Maureen at the start of the Via dell'Amore

Via dell'Amore, Manarola to Riomaggiore

Lovers on the Via dell'Amore

Some cheaters use combination locks. :)

Cloudy morning, fine afternoon. That seems to be the pattern around here. Went to La Spezia to catch the boat up to the five villages of the Cinque Terre. The boat today landed at two of them, and came close to shore for photographs of the other villages, before landing at Monterosso: (choppy seas, meant landing was impossible at the other three.). We had lunch on the waterfront at Vernazza, the second last village. Then caught the train back between the other villages, and walked between Manarola and Riomaggiore (just like Catriona Rowntree did on �Getaway�, a couple of months ago). By the way, Jules from �Getaway� is in town, and has been sighted on the train. (OK, Caro, he in no way measures up to George Clooney, but you have to take what you can get!) Di and Dan decided to just train it on this bit, as Di has blisters upon blisters on her feet. There is the lover� seat where you attach a padlock to the rail, and throw the key into the ocean, to show the solidity of your eternal love for your other half. We duly attached a combination lock. (Just kidding!).

The villages are very cutesy, and worth the 20 minute struggle to find the parking lot to catch the boat. Met some nice Germans, (except for the fact that Edgar is a Linux programmer).

View from our villa, Vinci, Tuscany

Our front door, Vinci

Maureen on the driveway up through the olive grove

Vinci, where Leonardo grew up.

Our travelling companions, Dan and Di

Maureen & Mike under a Tuscan... cherry tree

Our new apartment, a Tuscan villa (Agriturismo Leonardo da Vinci) is spectacular. We are totally gob-smacked that one can get such a spacious beautiful apartment with spectacular views of Tuscany, for $35AUS a night per person! The road here was a bit hairy, but totally worth it! Wait till you see the photos!

We went to the nearby town, Lamporecchio, (4 km away), to stock up with groceries. Mike slept in the car, and the rest of us did supermarket horror. He had just done road horror. You have to read and translate every label. Quite an exercise. Dan realized that we had to weigh our fruit and vegies, print a label, and seal the bag. He coped very well but decompensated when trying to translate which of the four varieties of lettuce to price.

The carn� (meat), looks dreadful. We know it was the end of the day, but... It is so fatty, it is disgusting. Aussies are spoilt with �pick the tick�. We ended up getting the premium mince and some lean hamburger patties, and chicken breasts. The rest for the week will be vegetarian or frozen seafood. Prices are very good, on the whole.

We had dinner in the garden, looking out across the fields of Tuscany. Simply splendid!

Heidi, our generous new Swiss friend, with Mike and Di

Firstly, they talked to us in the coffee shop about the general set up with the railway, and told us about parking etc., Heidi then put her Swiss francs in our parking meter. She called her husband, who joined us. They had travelled previously to Australia, and fondly recalled George, a pet lizard in Brisbane.

In the pouring rain, we followed them to the station. No railway attendant. No credit cards accepted. Heidi put enough of her Swiss francs in the meter to last us 8 hours, but we had no way to buy a ticket for the train. So far, she had spent around $15 Aussie dollars on us. We gave her a little koala. (She already had a collection of koalas, but one more is nice!)

She then gave us an alternative tour suggestion, before leaving us with her Email etc. Her husband was also delightful.

Experiences like this one are so special, and contrast to bus tours, where, of course, less goes wrong, but one simply never really interacts with the locals. And interacting with the locals is at least half the fun!

On the ferry, across Lago Maggiore

Australia - so hot in Varese right now

Typical Cadenabba villa

We travelled from Locarno around upper Lake Maggiore, then on to a ferry to Levona, and then to Verese for lunch.

Then, across country to the western side of Lake Como, and had a good perv going past George Clooney�s house at Laglio. Turns out he was in Venice, or he would have signed the autograph for Carolyn Bridges. Missed him by ... that .. much!

Took the ferry back to Bellagio in the pouring rain, and then home in Lezzeno.

Being shown around Trento by our WYD pilgrims

Silvia, Daniele, Mike, Letizia and Rudi

Maureen and Mike in the Tridentum La Citta Sotterranea- Roman ruins

Letizia had prepared a whole dissertation in English about the history of Trento. We started off at a coffee shop, and then proceeded to a museum with extensive Roman ruins under a theatre. This was really well done. Then a walk around the beautiful squares and buildings. On to a traditional lunch where they shouted us a very interesting meal with very Germanic food (plus tiramisu). Trento is minus 30 in the winter and quite hot in the summer, so their local foods are different to the rest of Italy.

Castello del Buonconsiglio, Trento

Ceiling at Castello del Buonconsiglio

Torre Aquila, which contains the famous Cycle of the Months

Rudi and Daniele ran into various friends around town. Apparently we are the first from St Matthew�s Loganholme to visit Trento. We went to an amazing castle (Castello del Buonconsiglio) and saw very unique and interesting medieval art work, and then the Duomo (cathedral). This definitely showed the influence of the Turks it had a minaret-like tower, and the women had to go upstairs to pray separately from the men, just like in a mosque. We finished off in a cafe, and returned very late to Como. They were all so generous, giving us such hospitality, time and even gifts for us personally, and St Matthews and Beenleigh parishes, as well as a special present from Jim and Carolyn Kanowski's WYD billets. My tiny bags are overflowing.

Cute; the villages on Lake Como are, too.

Had a more relaxing day today. Slightly cloudy, and a little shower this evening. Walked around Bellagio, and then rode the ferries on Lake Como for the rest of the day. Lovely villages. Talk about an overload of churches! Tiny villages had 10 or more of them. What heathen s are the people in Shailer Park!

Had some trout from the Lake for lunch, at a cafe in Colico in the very north of the lake, where the menus were in German and Italian, and the staff seemed very German. Snow on the mountains.

Toilets remain a terrifying experience. They are electronic. You put in your coins and wait for a command. Then you enter a metallic box with no contact with the outside world. Your hands are automatically soaped and washed, and the toilet automatically cleans. So claustrophobic. Diane had no luck with coins in slots � AGAIN. Turns out the toilet was still automatically cleaning. We are both now entering 2710 therapy for toilet phobia.

Di and Dan were near some sneezing middle Eastern man in Dubai. Turns out we now all (except Mike), have piglet flu. Sniffly, not feverish, but whinging a bit. Bought the biggest box of tissues available. The people at the market (not supermarket) recoiled in fear when we entered again. Our dramatic demonstrations of sneezing � asking for �tisutus�, leaving them horrified! All of the staff took two paces backwards when we approached. Bellagio is such a small town.

Dan feels miserable with the piglet flu, and he and Di have decided to just relax at our apartment tomorrow. I texted our Italian friends to tell them that Dan and Di were unwell, and just Mike and I were going to Trento tomorrow. They immediately had one of their English speaking girlfriends phone us in a panic. My Italian is so good � they thought we had all cancelled out!

Robbie has his passport application in process. What a drama! Mike backed into a stone wall, despite my warnings that he was too close. Thank goodness for insurance. In short, all is well in the world.

View from our apartment, Lezzeno, Lake Como

Hertz hire cars in Italy come pre-scratched.

Under Romeo & Juliet's balcony, Verona

Earlier, left Venice, hopped on the train to the mainland, and picked up the Hertz hire car. It is quite large, but has a big ding down one side, making shutting the sliding door a Herculean exercise. Six manual gears plus reverse, makes it a challenge to drive initially. We are all letting Mike do that.

Drove to Verona, and saw Romeo and Juliet�s balcony. Also the beautiful view from the tower. Did a general walk around. Definitely the stuff of wonderful postcards. Heard from home that Robbie, who was due to go to Hong Kong today, had just discovered that his passport expired in February. Peter sorted things out. He now does not leave until 17th June, and will be back on 1st July, in time for college. This makes him on holiday in Hong Kong when we are there! How cosy!

Di will need a 2710 Health Plan when back in Australia to cope with her new fear of coins in slots. Dan finds the foot spas are great for washing hair.

Still surprised how little English people have in tourist areas. I am now good at charades. People are very helpful, however.

The road from Como to Lezzeno (and then Bellagio) is simply terrifying. Mike is exhausted. They hurl around the hairpin bends all over the tiny road, at great speed. We had to back up, at one point, it was so narrow.

Tomorrow, we are going to Bellagio again. Only 6km, but scary. Seeing the cutesy streets, and then catching ferries around the lake.

Di & Dan blending in with Piazza San Marco

Did a stroll through to St Mark�s square, admiring the shops. All of us except Dan have been to Venice on a tour before. Talk about see almost nothing on these coach tours. We had no idea there was so much to see.

It seems we cannot stay out of trouble for long. Went to the loo. Should be a simple exercise? Di put her 1.5 Euros in the slot. No obvious sign to say you cannot put in 20c pieces. Machine jammed. Di went to second machine. More money. No luck in having turnstile open. Toilet attendant went ballistic! There she was screaming and shouting and then she grabbed a knife and started to wave it menacingly. Put in another 1.5 Euros and Di could enter. Lady still screaming and shouting. Stabbing knife down machine slot in frenzied manner. We were pretty unhappy too. Talk about an expensive trip to the toilet. Had momentarily considered just using the floor, then she would have had something to scream about. Woman from Melbourne chimed in to support us. Now too afraid to go back to that loo.

Went to the post office. Big queue. Aussies in front of us had packed nice Italian clothes in an Italiano Post cardboard box, purchased at the post office, to send home. Of course, at the Hyperdome, this would be taped up nicely by the Aussie Post staff. Italian Postal worker refused to accept article.Not taped up. No tape available. Aussie man turned around and asked huge queue in a loud voice if anyone had any tape. No takers. Aussies very polite actually. Had to go and buy tape, and go to end of long queue. This time it was not Di and I in trouble.

As we admired the tiled exterior of the Doge's Palace, this bloody great cruise ship glided by with HOW MANY people on the upper deck?

Paid 13 Euros to see Doges palace. Mainly so there would be a new loo attendant. Turns out the palace was magnificent way beyond our expectations. Went to loo at Doges. All queued up, and attendant indicated to Dan that he was next. Ever the gentleman, Dan tried to let we ladies go first. Trouble was, there was a definite �Gents� sign on the door. Dan keep deferring to the ladies. Attendant kept somewhat shouting �Signor�. He kept insisting on ladies first, until everyone was shouting �Dan � it�s a Signor�, toilet!� We are not good at toilets.

Then the Basilica. Gold mosaics dating back 900 years. St Mark�s body in a coffin under the altar. (This time, not a glass coffin). There was a work of art with 2000 precious stones in it! Unbelievable. The floor undulated, due to good old Venice sinking.

Caught the Vaporetto up to near San Polo. Wandered around the cutest streets. Venice must have about 100 churches per square km. Minimum. All bigger than Brisbane�s cathedral. We are amazed at the variety of styles in architecture and decor.

Tomorrow we pick up the hire car. Goodness knows what new dramas will unfold. (Still haven�t paid the speeding ticket from last year�s Spain trip. The Spanish Ministerio del Interior didn't buy Mike assertion that Justice Marcus Einfeld was driving.)

Di and Maureen on the terrace at the delightful Ada's House in Venice

Mike on the canal where we stayed

The apartment (Ada's House in Venice) where we are staying is magnificent. We actually have the top level of the building to ourselves, on a little canal just off the Grand Canal. Napoleon stayed opposite once, and the gondolas glide by outside our bedroom windows. There is a wonderful big patio, with all sorts of colourful flowers spilling all over and around it. The owners, Ada and Roberto, spoke little English, but were full of enthusiasm and so welcoming. It is amazing how far you can get with basic Italian, sign language, and a map!

Went on the number one Vaporetto around the Grand Canal. Just glorious. Even saw a submarine, and an Aussie flag on a building. The old palaces are wonderful, and all the windows had windowboxes overflowing with flowers. Went up the tower in St Mark�s square- fantastic views. Had a beer in a place on the square � standing. It would have cost twice as much for sitting down. We did some shopping for friends, and then went back on the vaporetto to our lovely apartment.

Dinner at a cheap and cheerful cafe, and a perfect day was over!

PS. Di and I will be writing a book on 1001 uses for a foot spa (bidet)!

Dan & Di on the terraces atop the Duomo

Galleria Vittorio Emmanele: The girls' eyes lit up

We spent ages at the Duomo (Cathedral). Forgot to tell Di to do step classes, as well as lots of walking in preparation for the holiday. Never mind, she is certainly doing step classes now. The cathedral is huge, and can seat 40,000 people. Just as high as wide. Saw beautiful treasures, and a bishop in a glass coffin! Ugh!

Then on to the Galleria Vittoria Emanuele II In other words, a shopping centre, that is absolutely exquisite. The tiles on the floor alone, are just to die for. Kay would just love the Louis Vuitton store. And there were people walking tiny dogs just to add to the whole feel.

We had just stayed at Palazzo Versace 8 days earlier

La Scala: much more flash on the inside

We went walking in the area of designer shops. Stick thin, well heeled chics were looking nonchalant and swanning by. When a bloke in the most amazing Lamborghini pulled up beside us, the local girls ignored him, and Di and I gasped and fell at his feet! Pity, the girl beside him looked so smug.. We only just resisted lying down in the road in front of the car. He obviously loved us, as he roared off with a great show of testosterone. Aagh, Italy!

Saw the longest shopping street in the world and bought NOTHING! Worse than three �Hail Mary�s� a hundred times over. We have to travel light. :(

Saw Roman ruins, and churches built on pagan Roman temples. The La Scala Opera Theatre was a classic, and we were sure we had seen it many times in the movies. Audrey Hepburn?

How close do Italians park?

No, seriously, here's another.

Have found that not many Italians speak English. Ran into a group of Belgians who were complaining bitterly about this fact. In their country, they speak French, English and German. They could not understand the �ignorance� of the Italians! You do worry about the image of Aussies abroad though don�t you? Not just our lack of language skills, but, when a 35 year old Belgian who speaks excellent English, asks you if there are any museums in Australia, I could only respond in the affirmative, with a side comment that we also live in houses, not tents!

Our Italian is improving hugely. In France and Spain, we found lots of people spoke English. Not here. At least, not where we mix. When we were last in Italy, we were on a bus tour and did not mix with the locals. That is one of the big problems with bus tours. Now, we spend large amounts of the day talking with them. Thank goodness, Di and I have spent a lot of time trying to learn Italian. We are really using it. We did the cheapo thing again tonight, eating the free food in the bar and paid for the bubbly. Great deal. For dessert, we the world�s most wonderful little tarts, from a deli called �Peck�. Better than Harrods. Each little tart is packed in a box with a ribbon. Wow!

Tomorrow morning, we leave lovely Milan and travel by train to Venice.
Arrevederci. Maureen.

KLM across the Alps

Arrived In Milan. Had the most fantastic flight (with KLM) from Amsterdam to Milan. Clear blue skies all the way. Holland was just wonderful, with little moats around each green field, and water everywhere. They must be forgetting to put their fingers in the dykes. Then on to the Italian/Swiss Alps, covered in snow, with green valleys and fast running streams due to the melting snow. The big lakes of Northern Italy � like Maggiore and Como, were just stunning from the lowish altitude of the plane. Lots of vacant seats on the flight, and the plane was standard fare, not an archaeological resurrection.

Pottered around for a short while till Diane and Dan arrived. Mike had a good sleep. Then trotted off to the Santa Maria delle Gracie to see Leonardo�s famous fresco of the last supper. Although it is said to have lost 80% of its colour, and some past renovator was fairly brutal and chopped off Jesus� feet (which were crossed under the table), it is quite a masterpiece (of course)! Then back to the hotel.