Cheryl & Maureen's East Africa Adventure 2015

Cheryl: I'm going to Africa to celebrate my 60th.
Maureen: Sounds lovely.
Cheryl: Why don't you come too?
Maureen: *thinks for 5 seconds* Yes!
So here we are then.

Well,OK, Anne is coming too. And Mike. And as well as Kenya and Tanzania, we are also self-driving in Namibia. So, strictly speaking, the title should have been Cheryl & Anne & Maureen & Mike's East (and South-West) Africa Adventure 2015. But that's a mouthful.

Tuesday 18 August

Brisbane -> Sydney -> Johannesburg

You'd think I'd learn! After nearly forty years of marriage, other halves don't change!

So it was, that Mike was up all night packing, keeping me awake,before our 5 am taxi picked us up for the airport. Being retired for some years, and having loads of free time, and my doing everything but pick his clothes, hasn't changed this exhausting tradition of not sleeping all night. This heralds EVERY single holiday!
(I think she's just revealed my secret to being able to sleep on long-haul flights. -- Mike)

After a big day at work, I was too tired to care what was packed.

Rant over! The excitement begins!

It's now 18 months or so since patient, Cheryl, who I've known for 33 years, announced that she was going to Africa to celebrate her 60th. Not backward, in being forward, I leapt on the idea to celebrate my pending six decades, as well.

Cheryl and Ann left 11 days before us, and are currently revelling in the delights of Botswana, South Africa, and Zimbabwe- similar to our trip in April 2013.

First leg- to Sydney. A perfect morning. Hardly a cloud in the sky!
Second leg- almost 14 hours, but great service by Qantas. Mike slept almost the whole way- as usual. I saw several movies, but didn't sleep a wink,which was OK.

We have transited in and out of Joburg airport several times before. This time, it was dry and very dusty, making for a lovely sunset.

The train trip in to Sandton, (an inner suburb), was very fast and efficient, and the hot bath at the Blu Raddison hotel - divine! Too tired to eat. Flopped into bed.

Cheers, Maureen.

Wednesday 19 August

Johannesburg

Next morning, we checked out, but left luggage at the hotel, and headed back on the train to the city centre, and the Hop-on Hop-off bus. This was a great way to quickly see Joburg. It was lovely travelling around on a fine 26C day.

One quirky thing about Joburg - the green "Walk" lights are on for less than the blink of an eye, and don't take any account of cars turning at intersections. It's safer to walk on the "Don't Walk" signal!

Unfortunately, we only had time for a quick loo stop at a glitzy casino attached to a Gold Mine theme park, and a wander around Constitution Hill. The rest we just viewed, as we drove past.

The Constitutional Court building was architecturally well done. Beside it, was a little tent where health workers offered HIV tests and counselling.

Back to the train, and the hotel, where Mike stayed while I corrected my packing error! No bras! Did my 10,000 steps virtually running to a shopping centre,where the shop assistants were delightful. What a useful souvenir of Johannesburg!

Gautrain back to the airport, then checked into Kenyan Airlines for our 4 hour flight to Nairobi. Africa is a big continent!

Thursday 20 August

Nairobi

Well here we are, virtually on the equator! It's a crisp 15C, and 24C is the expected max. The benefits of altitude.

The Ole Sereni hotel is lovely. Very secure, and right on the edge of Nairobi National Park. Great views of the park were soaked in over brekkie.

Today, we have a special treat! A sweet young patient (mid 20s), has asked her Kenyan ex-boyfriend, Samora, to pick us up from the hotel, and show us the sights. He is taking a day off work in his business, to do so!

Continued...
Samora Ochola picked us up from the hotel, with his co-worker, and friend, Phillip driving.

We crawled through the Nairobi traffic, greatly entertained by Samora and Phillip, who were fabulous company.

Mike wanted to post a card to some schoolchildren in Port Hedland, taught by one of his Facebook friends. We went to a post office in Ya Ya Mall - a slightly downmarket Myer Centre.

In 2013, another shopping mall in Nairobi - Westgate- had been the subject of a 3 day attack by Al-Shabaab gunmen, killing 67 people. Making it somewhat worse than the shootout at Robina! Since then, every person and bag entering the shopping malls in Nairobi has been security scanned before entering.

Just to enter our hotel, each car has mirrors passed under it, and the boot, glove box etc., are all inspected. Then each person and their luggage is security scanned. It was the same when we travelled to the Sinai in 2005.

In the Mall, I also changed some Aussie dollars into Kenyan shillings.

We went to Samora's house for a cup of tea. A picture of his recently late mother was accompanied by a medal. She received this high honour from the Kenyan Government for bringing IT and the internet to Kenya. Samora also works in IT. His sisters live in Brisbane, where the older one has been a barrister in Brisbane for 15 years. (No doubt taught at QUT by our friend, Noela!)

After viewing many monuments, buildings and streets of Nairobi, we arrived at the delightful 'Dari' restaurant. This is set in extensive gardens, with many small, private dining areas. Gazelles and Impala roam the grounds.

The food was delicious. There was an extensive cocktail menu, and I enthusiastically ordered a 'Mai Tai'. After some time, the waiter sheepishly confessed that there was nobody around who knew how to make cocktails. It was Kenyan beer or soft drink only!

We met the owners - Raphael and wife, Louisa. Raphael is a Kenyan parliamentarian, and had recently missed out on becoming President. Betcha didn't know we mixed with such 'movers and shakers'! We reluctantly left, as the sun set.

A very special day, indeed. Thanks so much to JE, my lovely patient, who organised the generous Samora to show us Nairobi. We learnt so much about local customs, politics, religion, economics etc., and had such fun.

Back to our hotel, for a drink on the verandah. Ordered a glass of savignon blanc. A glass of red wine arrived. The waitress was unconvinced that 'blanc' is French for 'white', therefore, Sauvignon Blanc cannot be a red wine! So, I had a nice glass of red wine!

As I've said - our hotel room is very comfortable. There's always something, though! This time it's the bath towel rails. If I stand on tippy toes and jump- I can JUST manage to hang up the towel. Looking around, I've noticed that these Kenyans are a pretty tall bunch! Their bathrooms are built to suit!

Now some of my friends- you know who you are- Jill, Mary, Carol, Sue, Debbie H....would have to suck it up and drip dry! Just a thought!

Tomorrow, change hotels, meet up with Cheryl and Anne, and see animals!

Cheers, Maureen.

Friday 21 August

Nairobi

Said goodbye to Ole Sereni Lodge this morning. Just as we were about to check out, we received a call from Cheryl and Anne. They were supposed to be picked up from the airport before 7 am. No show!

Our guide arrived at our hotel just before 9am, and readily agreed to pick up the strays from the airport - a little complicated by extensive security checks approaching the airport.

They were remarkably cheerful - considering the unsociable hour of their flight, and the fact that they had stood waiting outside the airport for 2 hours. Apparently, several people had stopped and offered to help them.

Told Cheryl she was not to divulge my medical qualifications while on tour! Except in dire emergencies! Told her that the Kenyans (and Pakistanis) call old people Auntie! So she is now insisting on calling me "Maureen Auntie"!

We went on to the highlight of our trip - Giraffe Manor. Dumping our bags, we headed out to the David Sheldrake Elephant Orphanage- now run by Daphne, David's widow.

Elephants are rescued, when poachers kill the mothers, or the mothers die of illness, fall in wells, or are otherwise left stranded.

It was great to hear the stories of the individual elephants, and to watch them being fed, from giant baby bottles. Cheryl ended up being the ONLY person in the large crowd of onlookers to have an elephant sidle right up to her and dump a huge splattery poo at her feet! Pretty special!

On to a ceramic bead factory, called Kazuri, founded in 1975 to provide employment, especially to single mothers. They now export worldwide! It was interesting to watch the process of turning ugly clay into beautiful hand painted jewellery and pottery.

Back to Giraffe Manor. Our room is divine- in an original 1932 manor, with a patio, and looking out on to grazing giraffes and warthogs.

After a late, splendid lunch in the garden, we relaxed with cocktails.

Then- a highlight! Hand feeding the giraffes. Even KISSING the giraffes! Cheryl fell totally, hopelessly in love with Kelly - the giraffe. The kisses were shameless, deep throat affairs! Giraffe porn!

Honestly, it was incredible!

Cheryl accidentally told me how much this one night at Giraffe Manor cost. (I previously just knew the trip total cost!) We are all selling a kidney when we return home!

A few logistical issues have arisen! South African airlines have cancelled our flights to and from Namibia. We have had to miss one night at a lodge- with no refund, and spend an extra night in Windhoek. First world problem! A number of emails have sorted it!

From tomorrow, we are in camps, so you may be spared my diatribes. Watch out when I eventually return to civilisation!

Cheers, Maureen.

Saturday 22 August

Amboseli National Park

Had a lovely dinner at Giraffe Manor, with an American family and 2 Aussies, last night.

We rose before dawn, to greet the giraffes at our bedroom window. Our room was called "Betty", named after a giraffe now in heaven.

At breakfast, the giraffes also joined us, popping their heads into the breakfast room. Poached eggs and fruit for us; pellets for them!

I think I've now had a lifetime of giraffe slobber! However, it was a very unique and amazing experience to tick off the bucket list.

Headed off at 8 am, with James, our driver. Destination: Amboseli National Park. Along the Mombasa road, to the southeast of Nairobi, at 2/3 the elevation of Nairobi.

Although only 250 kms away, this was a slow drive, with countless trucks, buses, (with goats on the roof rack), baboons, donkeys, cows, police checkpoints, and crazy drivers.

Fingers of house and unit developments, behind secure walls, extended from Nairobi.

In Nairobi town, we noticed many, many nests of giant storks, in trees along the main roads. These birds have quite a large wing span, and seemed as prolific as our ibises. Along the road today, we saw countless bird nests in trees, alongside the road.

In the villages, fruit and vegetable and bric-a-brac stalls, colourfully lined the road.

Zebras, actually WERE crossing the road.

Masai shepherds were scattered beside the roadway, with flocks of goats. They were all beautifully, and colourfully dressed, adored with beads, tall, and impressive.

At the entrance to Amboseli National Park, we were besieged by Masai people trying to sell souvenirs. Bought a necklace!

Thirty kilometres along a corrugated dirt road, we arrived at Ol Tukai Lodge. Entertainers in Masai costumes, sang a warm welcome.

Ol Tukai Lodge is set in a heavenly oasis, at the foot of Mt Kilimanjaro. It is in Kenya; the mountain is in Tanzania.

The long, dusty drive to the lodge was through desert like terrain. To be fair- we are at the end of the dry season!

Just before arriving at the lodge, the countryside changed from desert to brilliant green - some of which was swamp. Miraculous! Apparently, the area is fed by melting snow from Mt Kilimanjaro in the dry season. As there is very little food for many miles around in dry season, most of the animals are naturally corralled to this area. The concentration of wildlife has to be seen to be believed! It's a photographer's heaven!

At 4 pm James, our guide, took us out into the park, in his Toyota troupie. The roof lifts up, so you can stand, and take photos.

What a smorgasbord of wildlife awaited us! Countless zebras, elephants, birds, Thomson gazelles, servals, wildebeest, baboons, monkeys, warthogs, elephants- even some hyenas and lions! All thick on the ground- just for our pleasure!

The elephants were huge- with equipment that would make even Jackie Lambie blush!

The snow covered peak of Mt Kilimanjaro provided a majestic background, to this amazing spectacle of life.

We couldn't get enough of the splendour, and reluctantly returned to dinner at the lodge.

Sunday 23 August

Amboseli National Park

Up with the monkeys, ready for another game drive! Sat down with a cuppa and small donut, just before dawn. Bam! Quick as lighting- a little monkey pinched the donut straight out of my hand!

I wish I could post all my photos on Facebook- (just to bore you all and make you jealous!). The Internet here is very flaky.

This morning, the birdlife was wonderful! Some huge elephants crossed right in front of our car- Wendy T would have been SO excited! Zebras, reflected in the water, hyenas eyeing prey, monkeys, wildebeest, water buffalo, etc., etc.,

Breakfast was supposed to end at 9am, and we urged James to just keep on driving. Then we remembered that he might have wanted breakfast himself! At 9.05 they still fed us!

Sitting here, at the lodge, writing this, a large herd of elephants has just passed in front of me. We are gluttons for all this wildlife, parading before us! It's a beautiful day here! Slightly crisp morning, blue skies, and just a hint of a breeze! Aaagh!

Cheers, Maureen.

Monday 24 August

Lake Nakuru

Sadly, we had to leave Amboseli National Park, early this morning. Our expectations had well and truly been exceeded.

Thirty kms of " African Massage ",along a heavily corrugated road, gave way to the grind of the road back to Nairobi.

Not far outside the park, we saw a Kudu - quite rare in this area.

Some tips for business ventures: a concrete factory, glad wrap, and fly screens! We witnessed construction going on all over the place. A good sign! Sandwiches are wrapped in plastic bags - and so taste a little stale, and... malaria and other mossie borne diseases are a big problem. The first suggestion would increase production; the last 2 things don't seem to be available at all! I'm just a treasure of good ideas!

It's a big drive today. 550 km of trying to pass legions of slow trucks, and a motley assortment of other vehicles, along fairly narrow, and often poorly maintained roads.

Police checkpoints are frequently encountered.

Standing in the centre of the road, between the lanes of traffic, sellers try to entice motorists with fruit, trinkets, bottles of water, and the like.

After skirting Nairobi via another "African Massage " road, we climbed to 2300 meters elevation. The countryside was greener than Ireland, and the views, splendid! Donkeys and carts, imaginatively named little shops, and colourfully clad locals, made for an eclectic mix.

For years, I've been impressed with how the marketing word "natural", can sell products. No matter that arsenic, lead, snake venom, asbestos, and the like are also "natural"! They're on to this trick in Kenya. Billboards here promote "natural" beer!

Near Naivasha, many lakeside greenhouses grew flowers for markets. We stopped to eat our "packed lunch", before descending into the Rift Valley.

Beef cattle, sheep, more lakes, fruit stalls, bags of calcium carbonate ( from the lakes), to supplement the cattle 's diet, sheep skins, corn, and, of course, more donkeys, all contributed to making a busy rural scene. The "Fever tree" or yellow barked acacia, contrasted with the deep green vegetation.

An interesting commercial reality here in Kenya is "M-PESA". Even the tiniest, most shabby, little roadside stall, sports an "M-PESA" sign. To pay for just about anything at all, M-PESA is used on a mobile phone. No internet required. It is completely SMS based. To buy something, simply SMS the vendor�s number and the currency amount to M-PESA. The vendor receives an SMS confirming that the funds have been transferred from the buyer�s M-PESA account. Very clever! Cash is disappearing.

So, we arrived at Nukuru National Park, famous for flamingoes. We saw hundreds of them, but unfortunately, not close to the car. More like, 300 metre away!

The good news is that we saw 3 black rhinos, and 4 white ones, without much effort. Later- even more! Also water bucks, impalas, giraffes, water buffalo, many cute monkeys, including tiny babies, and great bird life.

The park includes Nukuru Lake, which is inexplicably increasing in depth. It was a lush, green, pretty area.

Leaving the park, we came upon most of the population of Beijing! They were in about 15 identical 4 wheel drives. Naturally, they were all wearing identical orange jackets. We Aussies are just way too rebellious!

On to our accommodation for the night- Loldia House. When the travel agent suggested this place, we didn't realise that the expedition to get here involved a similar level of difficulty as that needed for Armstrong to land on the moon!

Firstly, we had to drive back to near Naivasha. Then, we turned on to a truly horrible unsealed road, deeply rutted and rocky. It was the sort of road that made you wish to travel on a dreadfully corrugated road instead!

After 45 minutes of driving, mostly in the dark, we were stopped in our tracks by a hippo. James masterfully flicked lights on and off, and gently urged the beast to get off the road.

Finally we arrived! Heather, the owner of the lodge, completed the formalities, then an employee with a rifle and torch trudged us to the bottom of the large garden. What an effort ! We arrived at 7.30 pm, and have to leave by 8am.

Tomorrow, the travel agent had arranged an orphanage visit. She also must not have realised that this would involve a 240km round trip- taking 4 hours- before our 5 hour trip to the Masai Mara. We've cancelled!

Anyway, aside from having 2 million mossies in each of the rooms, the lodge is nice, and Heather is charming and interesting. Dodging mossies all the way, I'll now hit the sack!

Cheers, Maureen.

Tuesday 25 August

Masai Mara, Ilkeliani Camp

A beautiful day dawned. Loldia Lodge set up breakfast on the lawn, looking out to the lake, and the stunning garden. At least we were able to enjoy the place for an hour or so, before clenching our teeth, on the 22 km, 50 minute drive, back to the bitumen.

The waiter wore a red tie, vest, and crisp white shirt. His name was "Constant". The tablecloth and napkins were crisply pressed. It was like time travel, back to British colonial days. Jams, pikelets, home-made bread, cooked options- all graced the brekkie table- with the dog chasing away the monkeys.

Heather was quite senior to our group, but very spritely, with a Kenyan accent, more British than the British. Born in Kenya, she lamented that we were the only guests for a number of days- in the high season. Al-Shabab seems to have frightened off the tourists.

She bid us a warm farewell. It was almost worth the bone shaking 50 minute drive, each way! Almost!

I won't say there were as many cormorants in the lakeside trees, as there were mossies, but the cormorants certainly ruled! Many other birds, warthogs, impala, buffalo, and other wildlife scrambled around the lush, green, countryside. Stopping for the occasional shepherd, crossing the road with his sheep, cattle and goats, we found our way back to the bitumen.

Against the clear blue morning sky, Mt Longolot, looked like someone had draped a deep green, fluffy, soft, rippled, blanket, over the peak. The Eurphobia trees, quintessentially African, were plentiful, and made for a classy foreground.

Another Kenyan cultural feature was noted a few times. We all know that New Zealand is famous for extreme sports. It would appear that Kenya is famous for "extreme worship". At least, that is what many of the signs said !

The English language is also given a bit of a twist, when naming shops. "Memory Shop" ,"New Beginnings Shop�, "Level Head Shop", "Simple Happiness Shop" etc

As we headed towards the western Rift Valley, around Ntulule, baboons lined the descending highway, and played dodgem with the traffic!

On to Narok, the administrative capital of the Masai Mara. Famous for very clean toilets- no kidding!

Eighty kilometres (over 2 hours) of very rough, unsealed roads followed. The scenery was very green, full of cattle being herded, sheep, and native animals. The amazing thing was that we encountered colourfully dressed Masai people walking along beside the road, every few hundred metres. As if out of nowhere! Villages were seemingly infrequent.

Eventually, we arrived at the Tarak River entrance of the Masai Mara National Park. The countryside here was much drier, flatter, and featured few trees.

We had bought a few chocolates at the stop with the clean toilets. I asked our driver, James, about where to dispose of the wrapper. He took it and threw it into the bush! I was shocked! Even though Kenya has a significant litter problem, Indicating that littering is the norm, he is otherwise very environmentally conscious.

We had a late lunch and dumped our luggage into our rather lovely tents, and quickly set off into the National Park,

We were like kids in a lolly shop!

Firstly, the birds- secretary birds, woolly-necked storks, hammarkops, yellow billed storks, kites - just for starters!

Packs of giraffes, cape buffalo, a couple of cheetahs, Coke's hartbeest, Grant's gazelles, topi...and the rest.

We saw a hyena with prey, and another following him. And even a third hyena. We found him/her only about two meters from our 4WD.

The rangers had to round us up and drive behind us, to ensure we left the park - after closing time!

Off to dinner, doing the washing, and bed! Tomorrow will be another big day!

Cheers, Maureen.

Wednesday 26 August

Masai Mara

Glamping is superb! We even have limited electricity and internet, out here in the sticks!

The other half used the hairdryer last night, which blacked out the electricity, so he was not popular. There's no power after 11 pm, anyway!

This morning we set out early on a game drive. Gotta say that these ventures just keep getting better!

Within a minute of entering the park, we came across some jackals. Then vultures were seen to be enjoying a fabulous feast! Plovers, maribu storks, and all manner of birds, joined ostriches to make a wonderful morning spectacle,, warthogs and goodness knows how many Thomson gazelles.

Of course, there were squillions of wildebeest, all trudging along doing their migration thing. Looks like hard yakka! However, we learned that 80 percent of the females end up pregnant during the migration- so there must be some fun time!

Elephants, ostrich, Topi and, naturally, giraffes were hard to miss.

The highlight of the morning was seeing 4 lions- two up very close! They had just eaten, letting us off the hook! I'm sure the wildebeest tasted much better than us!

We had great fun tracking them.

Running a pretty close second favourite was our visit to Talek Masai village, practically next door to our camp.

We watched traditional dancing and singing performed by Masai men and women, and went inside a hut.

Considerable retail pressure was applied, and we bought trinkets, and donated to the medical centre and village.

A 22 year old man told me he had no education. Now, children have free education until age 12, in the village, and many have the opportunity to proceed to secondary and tertiary studies.

During the last 10 years, a medical clinic has been established, 4 km from the village, next to the school. The children walk the 8 km round trip to school, each day.

Although traditionally polygamist, our 24 year old male guide, told us, that, unlike his father( who had 12 wives), he would only take one wife.

James, our guide mentioned that girls are still married off at 12-14 years of age, so there is a way to go. His own daughter is doing a Masters in biomedical science at Uni. She wants to develop new drugs.

Back to a safari at 4 pm. Crocodiles, lots of hippos, and 2 lionesses were seen, as well as the usual crew.

Managed to examine the dentition of the latter two, very thoroughly indeed!

New animal of the day was the dik dik. This is a delicate antelope with huge eyes, not more than 40 cm tall, when fully grown.

Tomorrow is a whole day trip, following the wildebeest migration. We hope to see them cross a river en masse!

Cheers, Maureen.

Thursday 27 August

Masai Mara

Another perfect day! How lucky are we?

We kicked off with a hyena and prey being stalked by 2 jackals and a few vultures, with another hyena eyeing the scene from afar.

Then, in the middle of nowhere, in the Masai Mara, what do I receive? Yet another message from blooming Telstra, promoting a business product. They never leave a person in peace, do they?

Here, in a remote part of Kenya-in fact, in any part of Kenya, there is better reception than the one bar in Springwood, Daisy Hill, and Cornubia. So, Telstra, put your energies into solving that! (Rant over!)

Passing by many birds, elephant families, giraffe and the rest of the gang, it occurred to me that these animals are becoming like our children. Zillions of photos of the one who comes first and far fewer of the last sighted. (Apologies to Robbie!) Facebook will be relieved that I'm not keeping up the pace!

Today is focused on the wildebeest migration. As we drove towards the Mara River, the grasslands grew lusher. The sheer number of wildebeests was staggering. Zebras and Topi were happy to join in the procession, while large numbers of vultures circled overhead.

On reaching the Mara River, the many hippos, and water birds, such as Egyptian geese, were having a lovely time. Crocs meandered past, or sleepily sunned themselves on the river bank.

We came across a large pack of vultures and Maribu stork tucking into a freshly deceased wildebeest. Nearby, other scavenger birds were picking at a dead zebra. Circle of life!

The wildebeest were a real test of our patience.

We saw a small group cross the river. About 50. Bravo! The very large group of thousands of wildebeest, however, got the prize for being the world's most disorganised procrastinators.

Joining the Toyota migration, we watched the herd move in one direction. And then another. They raised our hopes by starting to go down the riverbank - and then turning back. Perhaps they were spooked by one of the huge crocodiles. Or freaked out by the Toyotas.

Then... Action! The herd headed down the river embankment. Baulking at some water birds was a bad move for one wildebeest. A very large croc grabbed him by the leg. Another croc sidled up. I thought he was going to give his mate a hand. Turned out, he was just there to watch the show.

The feisty wildebeest fought, then went quiet, and fought again, and repeated this scenario for about 30 minutes. Miraculously, it broke free and swam across the river to its useless, cowardly mates. Incredibly, it actually bounded across to re-join the herd.

All 50,000 of its rellies, wisely decided that it was a tad dangerous, to continue a river crossing at that point. A third croc had tried to join the excitement, and that, no doubt, clinched the decision.

We headed back to camp, seeing packs of Elands, and a one day old Thomson's gazelle. We also came across lions mating, which they do 30 times a day! But, talk about "quick draw McGraw"!

I've lost count of the number of lions we've seen in the Maasai Mara. In fact, I�ve lost count of every species we've seen here. Like Amboseli, it's brimming over with wildlife.

Tonight will be our last spent here at Ilkeliani.

Tomorrow, James takes us to an airstrip at Mara for a chartered light plane flight to Migori - a place where our friend, Samora, has built a home.

Then we transfer by road to the Tarime border and cross into Tanzania.

At the Tarime airstrip we board another light aircraft and fly to Kogatende in the Serengeti.

As the crow flies, the Serengeti is not far from where we are now. The complex arrangements are necessary, so that we can enter Tanzania through an immigration point.

The camp in the Serengeti, will, I expect, be camping, rather than glamping, as it is a mobile camp. I doubt there will be internet facilities.

Catch up soon!

Cheers, Maureen.

Friday 28 August

Kenya -> Tanzania Border Crossing

Sadly, we had to leave the splendid Ilkeliani camp this morning.

A short safari kicked off the day. One of the biggest groups of zebras we had seen so far, posed for our pleasure! The Elands, Thomson gazelles, wildebeest, and other wildlife did likewise!

On to farewell James, at the Olkiombo airport. This was a surprisingly busy place!

Our aircraft was a 12 seater, with 2 pilots. Just 5 of us on board.

We were picked up at Migori airport, which didn't even have a tin shed- and driven to the Tanzanian border for immigration and then a fair way on to Tarime airport.

We met a 70 year old Swedish lady who owned the private airstrip. She had been in Tanzania 18 years. For some reason, she had custody of 3 local children, aged 4 to 13. Some aspects of living in Tanzania she loved; some, she was well and truly detesting. Her commitment to the children had made her decision to stay a necessity.

We were greatly entertained by her 4 year old boy, Mbawa.

Initially shy, he quickly became a media tart. Cheryl was in her element, enjoying the hugs, and keeping him happy taking photos. Just like with her grandchildren!

Eventually, our second plane arrived. This already contained 8 Americans, making it full. They were a family group from Washington D.C. Very friendly and chatty.

It seems that a large percentage of the type of US travellers we have met, who choose to holiday in Africa, have also been to Australia.

Arriving in Kogatende, we met Makubi, our new guide.

He asked if we had any special needs. I told him that we needed to see a leopard. The poor bloke looked a little stricken. He seriously set about explaining that leopards were rare. We must understand that they are wild etc etc

So, I just told him to be positive! He frowned. A frown with a hint of panic!

Of course, we found a leopard. A very spotty one, too. Snoozing in a tree.

The Serengeti, so far, has granite boulders, gently rolling hills, and many burnt areas of grass, with bright green, new shoots. The local rangers deliberately burn patchy areas, so that animals are attracted to the juicy new growth.

We saw countless wildebeest in Kenya. Already, it appears that the Serengeti, Tanzania, surpasses Kenya�s wildebeest count, considerably.

Zebra were everywhere; elephants, impala and gazelles too. Baboons ran around with warthogs. KliffSpringer antelope, Yellow fruited long claw, White bellied bustards and cute pink and blue lizards, kept our cameras clicking.

As the sun set, Makubi asked us if he could "break the wind". We held our noses... Then watched him raise a windscreen on the open 4WD. Duh!

Cheers, Maureen.

Saturday 29 August

Serengeti, Nasikia Mobile Camp

Son, Andy's birthday!

'Twas a very windy night! We thought our tent would end up in the real Timbucktoo!

The staff heated up some water. 40 litre drums for two people to shower. Very civilised.

We didn't arrive till 8 pm. The full moon was welcome!

When we rose at 5.30 am, it was still blowing a gale. Heading off at 6am, the wind dropped, as the sun came up.

Makubi says that his whole life was changed by an Australian Anglican priest, called Chris. He paid for his education, and taught him to 4wd, Later, an Aussie doctor called Hannah, continued where Chris left off.

Now, Makubi arranges for teachers, doctors, and nurses to come and work for 3 months in Tanzania. They do some sightseeing when here. Eventually, he wants this to be his full time job.

The show, "Australian Story", has twice featured an Aussie woman called Gemma, who has established 2 large schools in Tanzania - the "School of St Jude". Some of Makubi's relatives have been educated there. He thinks she is magnificent. Aussies seem to be warmly regarded in Tanzania.

After watching vultures tear apart a wildebeest, and a family of 5 jackals playing, giraffe, gazelles, and the obligatory zillion wildebeest, we had a picnic breakfast.

We headed down to the Mara River- much wider, here in Tanzania.

The hippos lazed in the sun, while enormous crocodiles came to life. Elephant families enjoyed a splash, as well.

Makubi entertained us with animated instructions on dealing with attacks by crocs, buffalo, and the like. Hollywood should "discover" him.

The tsetse flies are a bit of a pest. They sting like a March fly but, even worse, spread tryptosomiasis (sleeping sickness). We are lathered up in insect repellent, but many seem determined!

We made our way along the bank of the Mara River, and patiently waited for the wildebeest to make a river crossing. After a while a large group obliged. Although they slipped and struggled across the slippery rocks, none were injured.

Then, we watched a smaller group cross the smaller Bologonja River.

On the way to find a lunch spot, we came into mobile range, on the top of a hill. Anne received the very sad news that her father had passed away in New Zealand. He was very frail and ill, but the news was, of course, a huge shock.

Today, we requested that our guide find us a lioness and cubs. Always a chronic overachiever, he found us 3 lionesses, 4 cubs - and Daddy.

Makubi went a little way down an embankment to see the male lion from a distance of a couple of metres. It was a tiny bit tricky, reversing. I had visions of sliding straight into the lion's jaw!

On the way back to camp, the elands, gazelles, zebra, and VERY cute baby elephants, joined the usual troops ,to put on a spectacular scene - just for us.

When driving through the many packs of wildebeest, they dart in one direction, and then another, reminding me of a rugby league player with the ball. The gazelles definitely prefer AFL.

Hot and dusty, we arrived back to camp before 5 pm, and enjoyed a couple of hours deleting photos before dinner.

Sunday 30 August

Serengeti -> Lake Manyara -> Ngorongoro Crater, Pakulala Safari Camp

Today, we said goodbye to the lovely staff at our Serengeti camp - Naskia mobile camp.

Another glorious day had dawned, with the large full moon, low in the western sky.

Makubi expertly drove us the nearly 2 hour 4WD trip to Kogatende airport, and bid us a warm goodbye. We will try to keep in touch.

We are off to Ngorongoro crater- to the east of the Serengeti in Tanzania.

The aircraft we are booked on, are much larger than we expected. Twelve seaters. Nevertheless, 4 of the men on board need to slightly crouch, as their heads hit the ceiling. Also, Mike has had a real squeeze, trying to get into a seat.

After 25 minutes, we landed somewhere in the middle of the Serengeti, to refuel. Then 35 minutes on to Lake Manyara.

The sight of the cloud tumbling over the edge of the caldera was spectacular.

The new guide is called SP. We went to a Lake Manyara lookout, and then to the upmarket Lake Manyana Serena Safari Lodge, for a beautiful lunch.

On to the Lake Manyara Park for a safari.

Elephants, giraffes, Jacaranda Kingfishers, Pelicans and other water birds abounded. Monkeys of several types played. Hippos don't even rate now, if they are more than 50 metres away, so piffle to this lot.

Onwards to Ngorongoro National Park. We climbed up the mountain road to the crater rim. Lush green vistas panned out before us.

At 7500 feet (2300 metres) elevation we reached Pakulala camp. The late afternoon views to the crater floor were simply splendid. Salt clouds gently puffed from the flat crater floor.

Some Canadians from Toronto whom we had met at the last camp, told us that they were absolutely frozen at Ngorongoro.

We had 2 thick doonas, and a hot water bottle, which, incredibly, stayed warm all night. Cosy!

We are the only guests in camp, for our two nights here. Already, we have been spoilt rotten, with a delicious dinner, and water warmed for our showers. Sounds like glamping to me!

Monday 31 August

Ngorongoro Crater

Today, we had a sleep in! 6.30am! Bliss!

Off we set, down to the caldera floor, which is at 1700 meters elevation, formed by the collapse of an enormous volcano, 2-3 million years ago. The circumference is over 30 km.

We don't have enough photos of wildebeest- only 2,363,925, to date, so took more. The wildebeest in the caldera don't migrate. Unlike previously encountered wildebeest, these don't take off, when approached, making for easier photography.

Of course, Cheryl's other name is "Paparazzi !" The rest of us are pretty guilty of zealous photography too!

A bonus of touring the caldera is that there are no mosquitoes or flies, although I have to say that the only time the flies were troublesome, was our first afternoon in the Serengeti.

Unlike our previous encounters with the boring, oh so common, black backed jackal, we were lucky to see the rarer, golden jackal - twice!

The caldera has no giraffes or impalas, but we saw hyenas, lizards, warthogs, hippos, many, many birds, including grey crowned cranes, augur buzzards, ravens, crowned lapwing, ducks, herons.... You get the picture!

One large tree held an apartment block of baboons! Five lions were lazing in the sun.

Eventually, we came to our picnic spot. This was a beautiful place - with clean, flushing loos! Just us, the birds, the breeze, and 34 other 4WDs! Every single tourist to the caldera has lunch at this location.

Ngorongoro Park is very well set up. We've now visited a good number of National Parks in Africa, and only this one has the luxury of, not one, but several, toilet blocks - clean and flushing!

The mountains fringing the caldera had been iced with clouds all morning. As the afternoon rolled on, the clouds lifted.

Baby monkeys were still pink, and lean. The parents were delicately grooming each other. Another was having a good 'ol play with himself!

Then, we came across 2 hippos, half buried in mud, only one metre from our car! Any closer, and we would step on their backs!

On to the salt pans in the centre of the caldera. Shimmering a dazzling white, with mists of salt wafting upwards, they were the perfect backdrop for a plethora of grazing wildlife.

The long slender neck of a heron, quivered back and forth. His head did not move! Such belly dancing talent! Then he dived, picked up a moderate sized mouse, and "down the hatch" it went!

Next, we witnessed the hippo extravaganza of a lifetime! Even our guide, who had come to the same pool, every day for 8 years, had never seen anything like it.

Dozens of hippos, large and small, were frolicking. We thought that someone must have been telling jokes. They all seemed to break into laughter, periodically. They rolled, sprayed water, and repeatedly opened wide for the dentist.

Then they had a great time expelling hippo poo! Phew! Marking their territory. Don't choose to come back as a hippo. Wallowing in your friends' poo, is not idyllic.

The really interesting part was that dozens of them started to heave themselves out of the water, single file style. Let's face it; if we were hippos, we would also have left the cess pit. They ambled over to a much cleaner, less smelly, abode.

We were delighted to see a mother elephant nursing her baby. Our 4WD has sides and windows, and a roof which lifts up, unlike the open sided, no roof affair that we travelled in during our trip in 2013.

So, thinking of my friend, Wendy....

Our nursing mother elephant faced us, and thundered over to our 4WD. Wendy, you will be relieved to know that we were VERY quiet, and VERY still. Her large tusks came within a metre of the side of the car. She paused. Then walked behind the car and let out an almighty bellow. Which was elephant speak for" .....! "

Time to head through the rainforest, to the rim of the caldera, and Pakulala camp.

What a day! It just gets better and better!

Sitting at the campfire, sipping chenin blanc, after a hot shower. Bliss!

Tuesday 1 September

Pakulala Camp -> Arusha -> Zanzibar

A foggy morning!

Our guide, SP, expertly drove us down the mountain, after we said warm "goodbyes" to the fantastic staff at Pakulala camp.

At Lake Manyara airport, we boarded another 12 seater plane. We're pretty good at them now!

We landed in Arusha. An Australian, named Gemma Sisio, has established the school of St Jude there. Single-handed, she began, and still runs, the project, which now educates thousands of children. We have watched the story of her project on ABC TV, several times. She is famous and loved in Tanzania.

Our pilot on the Arusha to Zanzibar (Stone Town) flight was a Kiwi.

We are now warm and cosy in Jafferji House. This is a very Moroccan style boutique hotel, right in the centre of the city.

The room is extraordinary. Huge and exquisitely decorated. We need to duck our heads to enter!

Wednesday 2 September

Stone Town, Zanzibar

We're feeling a bit guilty this morning. Our room at Jafferji House, Stone Town, is exquisite. The safe doesn't work, and it has a few precarious steps, but it is otherwise wonderful. Poor Cheryl and Anne had a horrible night, with the aircon sputtering, in their much smaller room - leaking, clanging and banging. They barely slept.

Our dinner on the rooftop last night was unsurpassable. We were the only ones there, and two waiters with huge smiles, met our every whim!

This morning, the other people at breakfast were from Buderim. Of course!

After brekkie, we went on a private walking tour, with a guide named "Suleman". We saw everything from the old slave market site, to the fresh meat, fish and vegie markets, and the old Portuguese (later, Arab) fort. The spices on sale were second to none in variety and quantity.

The altar of the Anglican Cathedral is on the site where slaves were sold.

These unfortunate people were housed in dungeons, with 50 people in an area of about 15 square meters. Unlike the West African slaves, who were sold to Americans, these were sold to people in the Middle East. Often, the chiefs sold their own people.

David Livingstone helped to abolish slavery in these parts, and died in Zambia (from malaria); in 1873 - the same year that slavery was officially abolished.

Most of the streets of old Stone Town are very narrow, suitable for bicycles, motor bikes, and small carts only.

At Midday, St Joseph's Catholic Cathedral rang out the "Angelus" and the 52 Mosques followed with the call to prayer.

We saw the house where Freddie Mercury was born, and lived until the age of six. Strangely, the only memorabilia they sold was a cap- in 2 colours. All the other shop stock was the usual stuff, available everywhere. Disappointing, as I'm a huge fan.

Cheryl and Anne took a 2 hour trip to Prison Island, to see the tortoises. We saw the world's largest on Rodrigues island, a year ago. I was feeling cold and feverish, so had a rest, as did Mike.

Two Panadol worked wonders. However, the complete lack of hot water for a shower was not welcome.

We returned to the fort area and bought some sarongs for exorbitant prices - hopefully to help fund causes for poor women.

Eventually, we settled on "Monsoon" restaurant for dinner. One and a half stars from me! Shocking service. Average food. Overpriced. Nothing at all like the fantastic dinner at our hotel the night before.

Tomorrow, we are heading to the northern part of Zanzibar. Today marked the halfway point of the holiday for Mike and I. It's going quickly!

Cheers, Maureen.

Thursday 3 September

Stone Town -> Nungwi, northern tip of Zanzibar

... to be continued, as electricity and internet connections allow.

Sunday 6 September

Zanzibar -> Dar Es Salam -> Johannesburg

Monday 6 September

Johannesburg -> Windhoek

Back to Maureen's Home Page.